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5.9+, Sport, TR, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 1.4 from 19 votes
FA: Reynolds, Shakib
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Coalpit Gulch > Industrial Wall
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Past most of the climbs, are 2 bolted routes next to a "waterfall". This is the left-most line. It only climbs well in low runoff. Avoid spring, early summer, and windy south winds, as this will coat the cliff. A tricky start up over 2 mini-roofs. This is followed by easier but not by much face climbing, angling right at the end.

Protection

2 bolts up top for the anchors, and 4 draws, **maybe 5 draws. Also bring a runner, as it may be needed.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] The move through the roofs at the beginning definitely didn't feel like 9+. The only way through I could figure out was climbing on the left and then making a desperate leap to the small ledge just above and right of the first bolt. The climbing eases considerably after the third bolt - its a bit runout but maybe 5.2

Dirty, weird, and discontinuous climb. Worst route at the Industrial Wall by far. Aug 21, 2004
philfell
Olympic Valley, CA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Trickey start, but if you take your time and figure out the sequence it can be done smooth and not any harder than 5.9. But it takes a little to figure it out. May 20, 2005
Jason Billings
Draper, UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] I agree with Andrew that first move is not 5.9. Or maybe it is if you are 6'7" like my partner who was able to do it the right way. I also went left and did the leap of faith. The next move are good up until the runout traverse. The runout isn't bad don't let it scare you. Sep 27, 2005
DrApnea
Wenatchee, WA
 
[Hide Comment] This must have cleaned up quite a bit since the comments above because it was not dirty and had good moves. I thought it was just as good as Hoffa finger. Pulling through the roof is the crux and very different than its brother next door. Felt like 5.9+ to 10- Jun 30, 2013
Rob Stinogle
Salt Lake City
 
[Hide Comment] We climbed this twice today to figure out the first move. Went left then clipped the second bolt low, or did the leap of faith. Both were a bit sketch. Jun 15, 2015