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Routes in Industrial Wall

Assembly Line S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blast Furnace S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broken S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Coal as Ice T WI3 M2-3
Conveyor Belt S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hidden Agenda S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hoffa Finger S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ignominious Demise S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Loading Dock S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Maid In America S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Union Dues S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wage Slave S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
White Collar Redneck S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport
FA: Steve Nichol and Jim Reynolds, 1994
Page Views: 135 total, 3/month
Shared By: Jeremy Noring on Jul 27, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Start to the left of Ignominious Demise. Follows a left leaning bolt line that straightens after the third bolt. Difficult traversing and bouldery sequences abound in the lower portion of the route; heady slab awaits above.

Protection

8 bolts to anchors.

The Ruckman guide does not give this route an R, but it should. There's a very long runout to a difficult clip on the upper headwall (just above the roof)--if you're on the short side, it is dangerous. Having some small cams for the middle roof will alleviate the R rating.

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wasatch boy
Salt Lake City, UT
wasatch boy   Salt Lake City, UT
I would add that this route is just past the large roof. An additional cam (or two) is highly recommended. I placed a BD #0.4 and a Metolius #2 in the slight overhanging blocky section before the slab. Long slings (or better yet, runners) would have reduced the rope drag for slab climbing above. Tricky crux sequence took me a few burns to get worked out. Aug 4, 2014
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
I'd strongly recommend a few cams for the middle roof. Otherwise, the upper clip is completely terrifying, and especially so if you're shorter. Jul 27, 2014