Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: Reynolds, Bateman, Dunleavy
Page Views: 2,155 total · 12/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 24, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This climb is the 3rd bolted line at Industrial Wall. It starts easier than the 10's on either side, but the roof creates a problem. Once solved the upper face is good and consistent.

Protection

White Collar Redneck requires 8 draws for the route and 2 more for the top.

Photos

Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.11b
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.11b
Climbed this on TR about a month ago. I was beat from climbing about everything else on the wall but the route looked to nice not to try it. The first slabby part is probably easier than the ones on either side, but once you get under the roof the business begins. It looks small from the ground, but the holds on the lip are not too great (right hand crimp has a knob on it that prevents you from getting more than 2 fingers on) and the feet are low and slippery. The move to reach the slot is fairly long (I had to do it dynamic) and then matching in it seems unlikely. Crazy balance and a hand heel match on the sidepull helps :) Once you're over the roof you can breathe but only for a second: the slab is not too steep but is truly 11b, and the holds are few and far apart. Hand-foot matching everywhere, a lot of smeared feet and thin crimps got me to the top. I'm still surprised I didn't peel right off some of the moves ! Sep 8, 2006
That was a good description. Great route! Aug 23, 2008
Sam Miller
salt lake city, UT
Sam Miller   salt lake city, UT
I think this is the best route on the wall. Pulling that roof is amazing and the slab above is crazy good. Hand foot matches on little edges.....perfect. Union Dues is really good, but this one is even better. Jul 14, 2012
RMBarrus
  5.11b
RMBarrus  
  5.11b
For me, the roof sequence had to be executed quickly and precisely and then the slabbiness begins! What a slab indeed. Trusting in those feet, staying calm, remembering to breathe, and committing to a move once you've decided on it is key. Super Rad Route! Oct 16, 2012
wasatch boy
Salt Lake City, UT
wasatch boy   Salt Lake City, UT
Great route that is continuously engaging from the roof onward. I found the adult 'Depends' diaper I was wearing helped quite a lot with the slabby upper section. It's all there, but you've got to trust your feet. Jun 9, 2014
Danie White
SLC, UT
  5.11b
Danie White   SLC, UT
  5.11b
Fantastic route!! I'm tempted to give this one four stars. I'm 5'4" and I managed to onsight the roof by getting my feet high on that neck of rock connecting the lower slab and the roof, deadpointing one hand into the narrow bottom of the slot and, since I couldn't find another handhold within reach, matching on top of my own hand. My chest was pegged against the stone at this point due to the reach factor, which made getting my feet up exciting... but doable.

And then the top keeps you working for it, for sure. But the bolts are always in the right place. FUN! Jun 10, 2014
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
I was really impressed with this route. Fun bottom, cool roof moves and a heady slab. One of the best I've done in LCC. Jul 27, 2014