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Routes in Mid Cliffs

409 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ajax S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Almer Casile Memorial Buttress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bad Ethics S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Big Head Ed T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boulder Holder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bwana the Mighty Metolious Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Wings T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fat Ankles S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Father, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heat Miser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In Vitro S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
In Vivo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jenga T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kip to a Handstand S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Boots T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Flower T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loaded Gun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucky Pierre S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
More Than I Can Chew S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nash-e-mun S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nikita T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Number Nine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nut 'n a Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orientationally Confused T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Potato Flake T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Prominent Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puffer, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rectal Cranial Insertion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake Eyes S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spear, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squirt Gun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steep Disorder T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sugar Magnolia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swallow S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sweat Engine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tidy Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wizard's Sleeve S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 355 total · 8/month
Shared By: C Hopwood on Aug 2, 2014
Admins: Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

Climber's left side of the Mid Cliffs. Climb the hand sized crack right of Tidy Up, to shared anchors. Starts on obvious belay platform. See picture.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard rack to chains

Photos

Russell Fogle
Boise, ID
 
Russell Fogle   Boise, ID
 
This crack is loaded with pigeons and and a large amount of their feces, avoid unless you bring a respirator and hand sanitizer! Jan 1, 2015
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
 
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
 
Didn't have too much trouble with feces, but there was the beginnings of a nest when I did it the other day.
The offwidth at the top can look intimidating, but there's a crack inside (climber's left) that takes hand-sized pro pretty easily. Largest I placed was an old-style #3.5 camalot (~#4 friend/new style C4). Fortunately, the crux is the finger-crack down low, and there are plenty of holds, rather than just jams, to make that section go.
There's a seriously loose and flexing flake to the right during that offwidth section that isn't long for this world. Definitely keep the rope out of the fall zone, and put a helmet on the belayer! May 10, 2015
Joshua Benjamin
Nampa, Idaho
Joshua Benjamin   Nampa, Idaho
Didn't really have any issues with bird shit on this one. I thought it was good for the grade. Gear up to 1", with perhaps a #2 before the offwidth section up top. There's also a small vertical crack in the OW that I managed to place a very small offset cam. Mar 12, 2017
max huecksteadt
Bozeman
  5.7
max huecksteadt   Bozeman
  5.7
I didn't want a pigeon shit thrutch up top (nor did I think I had the gear), so I traversed over to the last bolt of Tidy Up, which was a fun way to finish.
I don't know what its rated this way, maybe 5.9?
I didn't have any extending draws and didn't have a problem, but they might help if you finish this way. Mar 22, 2017
Blake Bolton
Boise
 
Blake Bolton   Boise
 
Climbed the off width looking for a hold, reached around the back and accidentally grabbed a pigeon. Safe to say the pigeon is still there. Fun climb though. Apr 1, 2018
So much pidgeon. But great for a first timers’ trad lead: awesome gear placement and plenty of opportunities to stand comfortably and rest. Apr 7, 2018

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