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Routes in Mid Cliffs
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409 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ajax S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Almer Casile Memorial Buttress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Arrow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bad Ethics S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Big Head Ed T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Bloody Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Boot Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Boulder Holder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Burgermeister Meisterburger T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bwana the Mighty Metolious Hunter S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Candy Ass S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Character Zero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chicken Wings T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V5+ 6C+ |
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Fat Ankles S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Father, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Heat Miser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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In Vitro S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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In Vivo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jenga T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Kip to a Handstand S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lightning Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Little Boots T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Little Flower T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Loaded Gun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Loaded Question T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lucky Pierre S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Man Eater T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Mike the Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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More Than I Can Chew S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nash-e-mun S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nikita T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Number Nine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nut 'n a Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Orientationally Confused T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Potato Flake T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Prominent Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Puffer, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rainbow Warrior S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Raptor's Revenge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rectal Cranial Insertion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Roanne's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Snake Eyes S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sneaking Sally T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spear, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Squirt Gun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Steep Disorder T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stemulous S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sugar Magnolia T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Swallow T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sweat Engine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tidy Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown Offwidth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Weenie Roast T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wizard's Sleeve S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Dan McHale, Charlie Crist 1974 |
| Page Views: | 851 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Trevor on Apr 2, 2017 |
| Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2025 Seasonal raptor closures: 3/11 Update: Carbody canyon closed from Pabst smear (west side) to Macabres roof (east side). Scary canyon, highway face, face canyon, Nixon head, and steep wall are closed.
Details
Adding new bolts, new anchors, and new routes at the Black Cliffs are currently NOT ALLOWED pending a BLM environmental assessment. Significant trail work is also on hold. Please contact the Boise Climbers Alliance with questions or for additional information
Description
The Spear is capped by an excellent finger crack crux near the top, but you have to pay your dues to get there. Start up junky rock on either side of the detached column, making sure not to kill yourself or your belayer with a loose block. I suspect this column has shifted out from the wall since the Epeldi guidebook was written. Once on top of the column, place a high piece, take a few deep breaths and punch it to the chains.
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