All Locations > Idaho > W Idaho > Black Cliffs > Mid Cliffs

The Spear

Name: The Spear
Rating: 2.7

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Mid Cliffs

L › R R › L A › Z

	409 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Ajax S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Almer Casile Memorial Buttress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Arrow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bad Ethics S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Big Head Ed T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Bloody Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Boot Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Boulder Holder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Burgermeister Meisterburger T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Bwana the Mighty Metolious Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Candy Ass S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Character Zero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Chicken Wings T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V5+ 6C+
	Fat Ankles S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Father, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Heat Miser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	In Vitro S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	In Vivo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Jenga T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Kip to a Handstand S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Lightning Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Little Boots T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Little Flower T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Loaded Gun T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Loaded Question T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Lucky Pierre S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Man Eater T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Mike the Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	More Than I Can Chew S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Nash-e-mun S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Nikita T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Number Nine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Nut 'n a Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Orientationally Confused T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Potato Flake T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Prominent Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Puffer, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rainbow Warrior S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Raptor's Revenge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Rectal Cranial Insertion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Roanne's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Snake Eyes S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sneaking Sally T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Spear, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Squirt Gun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Steep Disorder T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Stemulous S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Sugar Magnolia T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Swallow T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sweat Engine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Tidy Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Unknown T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Unknown Offwidth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Weenie Roast T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Wizard's Sleeve S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Type:	Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
GPS:	43.53804, -116.08996
FA:	Dan McHale, Charlie Crist 1974
Page Views:	985 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Trevor on Apr 2, 2017
Admins:	Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: 2026 Seasonal raptor closures, 2/28/26 update: Scary Canyon, Wailing Wall, Iron Man traverse, Face Canyon, back of Carbody Canyon (Excalibur to Hershey Squirt), and Highway Face are all closed. Details

Adding new bolts, new anchors, and new routes at the Black Cliffs are currently NOT ALLOWED pending a BLM environmental assessment. Significant trail work is also on hold. Please contact the Boise Climbers Alliance with questions or for additional information

Description

The Spear is capped by an excellent finger crack crux near the top, but you have to pay your dues to get there. Start up junky rock on either side of the detached column, making sure not to kill yourself or your belayer with a loose block. I suspect this column has shifted out from the wall since the Epeldi guidebook was written. Once on top of the column, place a high piece, take a few deep breaths and punch it to the chains.