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Routes in Mid Cliffs

409 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ajax S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Almer Casile Memorial Buttress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bad Ethics S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Big Head Ed T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boulder Holder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bwana the Mighty Metolious Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Wings T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fat Ankles S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Father, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heat Miser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In Vitro S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
In Vivo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jenga T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kip to a Handstand S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Boots T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Flower T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loaded Gun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucky Pierre S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
More Than I Can Chew S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nash-e-mun S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nikita T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Number Nine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nut 'n a Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orientationally Confused T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Potato Flake T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Prominent Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puffer, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rectal Cranial Insertion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake Eyes S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spear, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squirt Gun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steep Disorder T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sugar Magnolia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swallow S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sweat Engine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tidy Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wizard's Sleeve S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dan McHale, Charlie Crist 1974
Page Views: 54 total · 4/month
Shared By: Trevor. on Apr 2, 2017
Admins: Mike Engle

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Description [Suggest Change]

The Spear is capped by an excellent finger crack crux near the top, but you have to pay your dues to get there. Start up junky rock on either side of the detached column, making sure not to kill yourself or your belayer with a loose block. I suspect this column has shifted out from the wall since the Epeldi guidebook was written. Once on top of the column, place a high piece, take a few deep breaths and punch it to the chains.

Location [Suggest Change]

Just right of the very hard looking sport climb, Rainbow Warrior. The route name is painted at the base.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Gear. Crux pieces are micro to finger size.

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