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Routes in Mid Cliffs

409 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ajax S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Almer Casile Memorial Buttress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bad Ethics S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Big Head Ed T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boulder Holder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burgermeister Meisterburger T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bwana the Mighty Metolious Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Wings T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fat Ankles S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Father, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heat Miser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In Vitro S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
In Vivo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jenga T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kip to a Handstand S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lightning Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Boots T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Flower T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loaded Gun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucky Pierre S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
More Than I Can Chew S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nash-e-mun S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nikita T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Number Nine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nut 'n a Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orientationally Confused T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Potato Flake T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Prominent Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puffer, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raptor's Revenge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rectal Cranial Insertion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake Eyes S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spear, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squirt Gun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steep Disorder T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sugar Magnolia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swallow S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sweat Engine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tidy Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wizard's Sleeve S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,855 total · 74/month
Shared By: lisa rose on Oct 20, 2009
Admins: Mike Engle

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Description

Some smearing and stemming around the 3rd bolt make the crux. It's a reach for the chains if you're not tall.

Protection

4 bolts to chains

Photos

S.Lee
 
S.Lee  
 
Tons of stemming, your calves will probably burn by the end. Some feel its a bit hard for 5.7 May 12, 2013
MSMuir
 
MSMuir  
 
Listed as 5.6 in Epeldi's guidebook, but the crux feels more like 5.8. Probably not a very good climb for beginning leaders. Sep 14, 2016
Tracy Martin
  5.7+
Tracy Martin  
  5.7+
Kinda harder than it looks and dicey finger grips in the middle usually scares the beginners I bring. Try one of the 5.8s nearby if it is their first time. Apr 7, 2018
Robert A
  5.8+
Robert A  
  5.8+
The crux is between bolts 2 and 3 and is definitely more difficult than 5.7. I'd say at least 5.8. The rest is pretty easy. Apr 26, 2018
Old lady H
Boise, ID
 
Old lady H   Boise, ID
 
It is rather barren of much to work with around the 3rd bolt. My guest was happy to have some gear along, and found placements for a micronut and a brassie. It took both of us taking a turn up and down on that tiny gear, to figure out the best shot at it for my climber, who then discovered 5'6" didn't quite get to the anchors (at 4' 11", this is a hanging belay for me to clean the anchor). It was eye opening (I'm barely started with gear) to see the tiny gear placed, and inspiring, too! May 30, 2018

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