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Routes in Mid Cliffs

409 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ajax S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Almer Casile Memorial Buttress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bad Ethics S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Boulder Holder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bwana the Mighty Metolious Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Wings T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fat Ankles S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Father, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heat Miser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In Vitro S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In Vivo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kip to a Handstand S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Little Boots T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Flower T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loaded Gun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucky Pierre S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
More Than I Can Chew S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nash-e-mun S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nikita T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Number Nine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nut 'n a Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orientationally Confused T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Potato Flake T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Prominent Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puffer, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rectal Cranial Insertion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake Eyes S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spear, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squirt Gun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steep Disorder T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sugar Magnolia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swallow S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sweat Engine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tidy Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wizard's Sleeve S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Steve Fransen, Jacob Sack 1995
Page Views: 482 total, 6/month
Shared By: R.Walters on Sep 20, 2011
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Seasonal Raptor Closures. Details

Description

Follows mostly positive crimps and edges up a column face for several bolts until the rock turns to a blonde color and becomes pocketed. The crux pulls through some of these pockets with a couple slopers.

Enjoyable climbing the whole way. A great Black Cliffs 5.10!

Location

First bolted route right of 'Chicken Wings.' Another route, 'Saturn' (12c), shares the first bolt and veers right. Sweat Engine goes directly up the plumb line.

Protection

6 bolts, chains

Photos

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Cory Harelson
Boise, ID
 
Cory Harelson   Boise, ID
 
The first 2/3 of the climb is slightly less than vertical with spaced but very positive edges, making for some very fun climbing! Like many of the routes out here the crux is at the top and a bit beta intensive . . . Sep 28, 2011