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Routes in Mid Cliffs
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409 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ajax S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Almer Casile Memorial Buttress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Arrow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bad Ethics S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Big Head Ed T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bloody Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Boot Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Boulder Holder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Burgermeister Meisterburger T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bwana the Mighty Metolious Hunter S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Candy Ass S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Character Zero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chicken Wings T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V5+ 6C+ |
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Fat Ankles S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Father, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Heat Miser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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In Vitro S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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In Vivo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jenga T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Kip to a Handstand S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lightning Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Little Boots T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Little Flower T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Loaded Gun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lucky Pierre S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Man Eater T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Mike the Dog T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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More Than I Can Chew S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nash-e-mun S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nikita T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Number Nine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nut 'n a Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Orientationally Confused T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Potato Flake T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Prominent Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Puffer, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rainbow Warrior S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Raptor's Revenge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rectal Cranial Insertion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Roanne's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Snake Eyes S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spear, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Squirt Gun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Steep Disorder T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stemulous S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sugar Magnolia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Swallow S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sweat Engine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tidy Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown Offwidth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Weenie Roast T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wizard's Sleeve S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Sandi Epeldi, Sarah Brandenberger (October 2000) |
| Page Views: | 705 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | M _ on Nov 28, 2020 |
| Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal raptor closures: Scary Canyon, Face Canyon, Highway Face, Steep Wall, Far Side, and Nixon Head (updated 3/15/24)
Details
Description
This is a classic route that seems to have developed a serious reputation. In my opinion, the serious stories I have heard about it are not warranted--it is a well-protected route. Certainly worth checking out!
Relatively easy climbing (5.10 or so) for the first four bolts leads to a technical traverse at the fifth bolt. Traverse left on thunderclings to a deep slot around the base of the arete. From there, a stellar boulder problem climbs the arete, finishing with a big move to a good, sloping jug just above the anchor. Don't sell yourself short by trying to clip the anchor without doing the last move--it's a great finish! (Although it is a bit of a heart breaker!)
Apparently a direct variation exists that skips the left traverse, but I haven't tried it. I have heard it ups the grade a couple letters.
1 Comment