The Father

Name: The Father
Rating: 3.5

5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Mid Cliffs

L › R R › L A › Z

	409 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Ajax S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Almer Casile Memorial Buttress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Arrow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bad Ethics S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Boulder Holder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bwana the Mighty Metolious Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Chicken Wings T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Fat Ankles S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Father, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Heat Miser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	In Vitro S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	In Vivo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Kip to a Handstand S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Little Boots T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Little Flower T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Loaded Gun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lucky Pierre S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	More Than I Can Chew S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Nash-e-mun S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Nikita T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Number Nine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Nut 'n a Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Orientationally Confused T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Potato Flake T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Prominent Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Puffer, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rectal Cranial Insertion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Snake Eyes S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Spear, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Squirt Gun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Steep Disorder T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Sugar Magnolia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Swallow S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sweat Engine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Tidy Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Wizard's Sleeve S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:

Type:	Trad, 65 ft
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	934 total · 18/month
Shared By:	Trevor. on Feb 25, 2014
Admins:	Mike Engle

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Description

This is a pretty cool route with great exposure at the crux. It goes up a scaly crack to a roof, then left at the roof. The moves to get out from under the roof are the crux. It takes great pro the whole route as long as you're careful about the flakiness in the lower crack.

Location

Maybe 50ft right of Sweat Engine?

Protection

Gear including a #3 Camalot. Anchors recently replaced with beefy stainless + chains.

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The route. Climb the hand crack until you are…

4 Comments

C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT

C Hopwood Salt Lake City, UT

This is one of the absolute BEST TRAD LINES AT THE CLIFFS! There are a few stones still rattling around in the hand crack but, after climbing this line many times, I'm certain that very few of them will ever come out. There was also a death block just under the roof and it is now gone. There is a little flakey rock but most of it is cleaned up.

Climb a hand crack (with plenty of other options for hands and feet) to the underside of a roof, place a few smaller pieces of gear and then pull out of the left side of the roof to a no hands rest on a ledge. You feel incredibly exposed at this point, as there's no real place to put gear, so make sure you have good gear below your feet before you pull the bulge to the chains. If you really want protection here, there is a tiny crack (took a .1 camalot) just over the top of the bulge that you can use to protect the final move to the chains. Rap to the right of the crack at the top. This will not only take you straight down your line for cleaning but if you start your rap into the dihedral, your rope can easily get stuck in small crack at the top of the bulge. DON'T MISS THIS ROUTE!! It is amazing. Dec 11, 2014