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Routes in Mid Cliffs

409 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ajax S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Almer Casile Memorial Buttress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bad Ethics S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Big Head Ed T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boulder Holder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burgermeister Meisterburger T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bwana the Mighty Metolious Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Wings T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fat Ankles S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Father, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heat Miser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In Vitro S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
In Vivo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jenga T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kip to a Handstand S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lightning Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Boots T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Flower T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loaded Gun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucky Pierre S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
More Than I Can Chew S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nash-e-mun S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nikita T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Number Nine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nut 'n a Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orientationally Confused T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Potato Flake T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Prominent Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puffer, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raptor's Revenge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rectal Cranial Insertion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake Eyes S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spear, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squirt Gun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steep Disorder T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sugar Magnolia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swallow S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sweat Engine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tidy Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wizard's Sleeve S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,086 total · 19/month
Shared By: Trevor. on Feb 25, 2014
Admins: Mike Engle

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Description

This is a pretty cool route with great exposure at the crux. It goes up a scaly crack to a roof, then left at the roof. The moves to get out from under the roof are the crux. It takes great pro the whole route as long as you're careful about the flakiness in the lower crack.

Location

Maybe 50ft right of Sweat Engine?

Protection

Gear including a #3 Camalot. Anchors recently replaced with beefy stainless + chains.

Photos

C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This is one of the absolute BEST TRAD LINES AT THE CLIFFS! There are a few stones still rattling around in the hand crack but, after climbing this line many times, I'm certain that very few of them will ever come out. There was also a death block just under the roof and it is now gone. There is a little flakey rock but most of it is cleaned up.

Climb a hand crack (with plenty of other options for hands and feet) to the underside of a roof, place a few smaller pieces of gear and then pull out of the left side of the roof to a no hands rest on a ledge. You feel incredibly exposed at this point, as there's no real place to put gear, so make sure you have good gear below your feet before you pull the bulge to the chains. If you really want protection here, there is a tiny crack (took a .1 camalot) just over the top of the bulge that you can use to protect the final move to the chains. Rap to the right of the crack at the top. This will not only take you straight down your line for cleaning but if you start your rap into the dihedral, your rope can easily get stuck in small crack at the top of the bulge. DON'T MISS THIS ROUTE!! It is amazing. Dec 11, 2014
Michael Beasley
Boise, ID
 
Michael Beasley   Boise, ID
 
Fantastic route! Probably the best trad at the cliffs that I have done. A little dirty in some spots but not bad. Highly recommend it. Sep 13, 2015
Sean Sullivan
Boise, ID
 
Sean Sullivan   Boise, ID
 
Super fun route. Committing crux. Small nuts would have been helpful for the final moves to the anchor; sadly, I forgot to bring them. Aug 7, 2017

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