Bad Ethics [Edit]

Name: Bad Ethics
Rating: 2.3

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13

Routes in Mid Cliffs

L › R R › L A › Z

	409 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Ajax S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Almer Casile Memorial Buttress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Arrow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bad Ethics S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Big Head Ed T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Boulder Holder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bwana the Mighty Metolious Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Chicken Wings T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Fat Ankles S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Father, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Heat Miser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	In Vitro S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	In Vivo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Jenga T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Kip to a Handstand S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Little Boots T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Little Flower T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Loaded Gun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lucky Pierre S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	More Than I Can Chew S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Nash-e-mun S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Nikita T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Number Nine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Nut 'n a Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Orientationally Confused T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Potato Flake T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Prominent Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Puffer, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rectal Cranial Insertion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Snake Eyes S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Spear, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Squirt Gun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Steep Disorder T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Sugar Magnolia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Swallow S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sweat Engine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Tidy Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Wizard's Sleeve S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Sport
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	304 total · 6/month
Shared By:	CaseyDJones on Nov 9, 2013 with updates from Petsfed
Admins:	Mike Engle

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Description [Edit]

Climb easy basalt until you reach two bolts placed next to eachother (use the one on the right, the one on the left is loose) with a bulge above.

Location [Edit]

The route is easy to find because the name is scratched into the rock at the base of the climb.

Protection [Edit]

About 6 bolts to chains and one cold shut

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Shae Griffin after pulling the roof.

2 Comments

C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT

5.10b/c

C Hopwood Salt Lake City, UT

5.10b/c

This route is in no way PG13. It has two distinct cruxes. The first is technical and comes before the roof as you inch your way up the column with no feet and one crappy fingerlock in the crack. The second is pulling a stout roof but you pull the roof with a bolt right at your waist. More than adequately bolted, although I don't think this goes at 5.10a by any stretch of the imagination.
The route lies between the sport routes Snake Eyes (5.8) and Stemulus (5.11d). Sep 7, 2014

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Petsfed
Laramie, WY

Petsfed Laramie, WY

That loose bolt really needs to go. I got suckered into thinking that the roof was an extension (looks that way from the ground), then got up there and found I was wrong. Up to those two bolts is a pleasant, if thin, 5.8 Mar 7, 2015

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Bad Ethics [Edit]