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Routes in Mid Cliffs

409 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ajax S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Almer Casile Memorial Buttress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bad Ethics S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Big Head Ed T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boulder Holder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burgermeister Meisterburger T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bwana the Mighty Metolious Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Wings T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fat Ankles S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Father, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heat Miser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In Vitro S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
In Vivo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jenga T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kip to a Handstand S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lightning Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Boots T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Flower T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loaded Gun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucky Pierre S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
More Than I Can Chew S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nash-e-mun S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nikita T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Number Nine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nut 'n a Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orientationally Confused T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Potato Flake T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Prominent Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puffer, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raptor's Revenge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rectal Cranial Insertion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake Eyes S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spear, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squirt Gun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steep Disorder T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sugar Magnolia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swallow S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sweat Engine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tidy Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wizard's Sleeve S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 330 total · 6/month
Shared By: CaseyDJones on Nov 9, 2013 with updates from Petsfed
Admins: Mike Engle

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Description

Climb easy basalt until you reach two bolts placed next to eachother (use the one on the right, the one on the left is loose) with a bulge above.

Location

The route is easy to find because the name is scratched into the rock at the base of the climb.

Protection

About 6 bolts to chains and one cold shut

Photos

C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b/c
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b/c
This route is in no way PG13. It has two distinct cruxes. The first is technical and comes before the roof as you inch your way up the column with no feet and one crappy fingerlock in the crack. The second is pulling a stout roof but you pull the roof with a bolt right at your waist. More than adequately bolted, although I don't think this goes at 5.10a by any stretch of the imagination.
The route lies between the sport routes Snake Eyes (5.8) and Stemulus (5.11d). Sep 7, 2014
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
That loose bolt really needs to go. I got suckered into thinking that the roof was an extension (looks that way from the ground), then got up there and found I was wrong. Up to those two bolts is a pleasant, if thin, 5.8 Mar 7, 2015

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