Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 15,910 total · 165/month
Shared By: BJ Sbarra on Jun 21, 2011
Admins: Mike Engle

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

Start with standard Black Cliff's stemming between columns, which leads up to a short crux, with a final thoughtful move to the chains. There is some loose rock on the sides of this climb.

Location

On the right side of the Mid Cliffs, right of In Vitro, but before the obvious thin crack of Nikita.

Protection

Single set of cams from C3's to gold Camalot, nuts.

Photos

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S.Lee
  5.8
S.Lee  
  5.8
Takes nuts really well, nothing bigger than a #2 BD, and even that you could probably get by without. Jul 27, 2014
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This route was retro-bolted in the past and I can see why. It has since been chopped but the bolt holes remain. The gear is just not that great on this route; finicky placements and mostly small gear. Enjoyable but definitely would not put a beginner trad leader on this. Nov 7, 2014
Jenn Krogue
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Jenn Krogue   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Takes cams well and easy Stemming. Last move felt bold. Cannot see chains until you're just below them. Loose rocks on here - careful! Jun 16, 2015
Sean Sullivan
Boise, ID
Sean Sullivan   Boise, ID
Nuts were definitely helpful on the final, thoughtful moves. I thought the gear was fine. Aug 7, 2017
The book says that there should be a nut on this route but I could not find one. So what is an anal retentive climber to do? Fall on a brand new DMM number 1 nut that is now impossible to remove so that the book can be correct again. If you manage to remove it I'd like to have it back as it's my first lead fall! Thanks. Oct 15, 2017
Not the best rappel, 7/10. Probs would do again. Jan 28, 2019