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Routes in Mid Cliffs

409 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ajax S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Almer Casile Memorial Buttress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bad Ethics S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Boulder Holder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bwana the Mighty Metolious Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Wings T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fat Ankles S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Father, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heat Miser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In Vitro S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In Vivo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kip to a Handstand S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Little Boots T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Flower T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loaded Gun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucky Pierre S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
More Than I Can Chew S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nash-e-mun S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nikita T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Number Nine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nut 'n a Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orientationally Confused T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Potato Flake T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Prominent Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puffer, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rectal Cranial Insertion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake Eyes S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spear, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squirt Gun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steep Disorder T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sugar Magnolia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swallow S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sweat Engine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tidy Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wizard's Sleeve S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 747 total, 10/month
Shared By: BJ Sbarra on Jun 21, 2011
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Seasonal Raptor Closures. Details

Description

Start with standard Black Cliff's stemming between columns, which leads up to a short crux, with a final thoughtful move to the chains. There is some loose rock on the sides of this climb.

Location

On the right side of the Mid Cliffs, right of In Vitro, but before the obvious thin crack of Nikita.

Protection

Single set of cams from C3's to gold Camalot, nuts.

Photos

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The book says that there should be a nut on this route but I could not find one. So what is an anal retentive climber to do? Fall on a brand new DMM number 1 nut that is now impossible to remove so that the book can be correct again. If you manage to remove it I'd like to have it back as it's my first lead fall! Thanks. Oct 15, 2017
Sean Sullivan
Boise, ID
Sean Sullivan   Boise, ID
Nuts were definitely helpful on the final, thoughtful moves. I thought the gear was fine. Aug 7, 2017
Jenn Krogue
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Jenn Krogue   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Takes cams well and easy Stemming. Last move felt bold. Cannot see chains until you're just below them. Loose rocks on here - careful! Jun 16, 2015
CHopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
CHopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This route was retro-bolted in the past and I can see why. It has since been chopped but the bolt holes remain. The gear is just not that great on this route; finicky placements and mostly small gear. Enjoyable but definitely would not put a beginner trad leader on this. Nov 7, 2014
S.Lee
  5.8
S.Lee  
  5.8
Takes nuts really well, nothing bigger than a #2 BD, and even that you could probably get by without. Jul 27, 2014