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Early Access
Routes in Chicken Head Ranch
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Bart's Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Beaks and Feet S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Buzzsaw, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chicken Choker S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chicken Little S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Chicken Spit S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cluck Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crystal Key, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Escape Hatch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Extra Crispy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Finger Lickin' Good S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fracture, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Funky Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Measure Up, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Mini-Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mini-Splitter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Raining Chickens S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Super Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Thunder Chicken S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unjust S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wank Variation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wishbone Dihedral S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Yellow Dot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 39.25855, -105.10569 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,824 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | michalm on Jun 18, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Road and Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
Begin in an overhang on dark and somewhat dirty, but solid, rock. Be secure clipping the second bolt from a jug. A clipping fall would ensure groundfall. Pull out of the overhang and onto a slab up a corner/arete feature. Traverse left just before or at the seam below the roof, clip a few more bolts, and pull the roof from a seam and some underclings on thin but secure feet. Look for the key hold over the lip. Mantel and climb easy slab to the anchors.
It is 5.11 climbing to the roof, V4 boulder problem pulling the roof and manteling, and then easy slab to anchors.
The steep beginning has sporty bolting, and the easy slab seems overbolted.
The rock in the overhangs is still a little dirty but is cleaning up.
The rock at the top and at the lip is sharp and grippy, which is good for traction but bad if you lower instead of rap. This rock will chew up your rope. Toproping is not recommended unless you are creative at eliminating rope drag.
Location
The Crystal Key is a couple routes to the right of Yellow Dot; begin in an overhang on dark, dirty-looking rock. See the guidebook for the exact location.
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