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Routes in The Textbooks

Avant Garde T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bad Manners T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Man on Campus T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Block Party TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boys Visit Charm School S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chalkboard S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dancing Hearts T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Deep Sleep T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doorknob People T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Graduation Day T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heart Throb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
L.B.S. T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Labyrinth T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Minotaur T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prom Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schools Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Splash T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Theseus T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Virgin Slayer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Unknown, 1970s
Page Views: 515 total, 10/month
Shared By: Chris D on Sep 9, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Start up a nice crack in a left facing corner below a large roof. The second edition Watts guide describes this as a pleasant crack that most people climb to the bolt and lower from. The original route continues by traversing left then up through steep blocky terrain.

Beyond the initial traverse, the climbing is 5.8-5.9 up to the blocks, then probably 5.10 or more to finish. There is no 5.7 terrain above the traverse.

Location

The unmistakeable corner with the large roof about 20 feet to the left of Theseus

Protection

A couple of pieces to 2 inches if you're just climbing the crack. If you're going all the way to the top, add a set of wired stoppers.

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9
At the second roof, go right around the arete. There are hidden face holds that make it easier than finishing left. Aug 4, 2015
Priti Wright
Seattle, Washington
5.10a
Priti Wright   Seattle, Washington
5.10a
The second roof was way harder than Virgin Slayer but easier than Labyrinth. Sep 2, 2014
Holden Marsh
Eugene, OR
  5.9+
Holden Marsh   Eugene, OR
  5.9+
Though well protected, the move up around the roof is much harder than a 5.7. Don't lead this route if that is your limit. May 27, 2014
Chris D
the couch
 
Chris D   the couch
 
NOTE: The 5.7 climbing ends at the bolt below the roof. You can lower from here, but you'll be lowering and rapping from a single bolt at some point. There's also a fixed pin above the bolt.

Not sure if anyone's finished the route lately, but the stuff above the little traverse to the left of the roof is way harder than 5.7, even old school 5.7.

The crack is okay, I guess, but nothing you'd want to hike in just to do. It's very short. Sep 9, 2013