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Heart Throb

Name: Heart Throb
Rating: 2.4

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in The Textbooks

L › R R › L A › Z

	Avant Garde T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Bad Manners T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Big Man on Campus T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Block Party TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Boys Visit Charm School S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Chalkboard S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Dancing Hearts T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Deep Sleep T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Doorknob People T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Global Motion T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Graduation Day T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Heart Throb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	L.B.S. T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Labyrinth T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Minotaur T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Prom Night T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Rage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Schools Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Splash T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Theseus T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Virgin Slayer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Trad, 60 ft
FA:	Unknown, 1970s
Page Views:	593 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Chris D on Sep 9, 2013
Admins:	Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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Description

Start up a nice crack in a left facing corner below a large roof. The second edition Watts guide describes this as a pleasant crack that most people climb to the bolt and lower from. The original route continues by traversing left then up through steep blocky terrain.

Beyond the initial traverse, the climbing is 5.8-5.9 up to the blocks, then probably 5.10 or more to finish. There is no 5.7 terrain above the traverse.

Location

The unmistakeable corner with the large roof about 20 feet to the left of Theseus

Protection

A couple of pieces to 2 inches if you're just climbing the crack. If you're going all the way to the top, add a set of wired stoppers.

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Photos

Homeboy Levi at the top of crack section

Luis trying to find a reasonable way to the top…

Luis starts up the short corner on Heart Throb…

4 Comments

Chris D
the couch

5.7

Chris D the couch

5.7

NOTE: The 5.7 climbing ends at the bolt below the roof. You can lower from here, but you'll be lowering and rapping from a single bolt at some point. There's also a fixed pin above the bolt.

Not sure if anyone's finished the route lately, but the stuff above the little traverse to the left of the roof is way harder than 5.7, even old school 5.7.

The crack is okay, I guess, but nothing you'd want to hike in just to do. It's very short. Sep 9, 2013