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Routes in The Textbooks

Avant Garde T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bad Manners T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Man on Campus T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Block Party TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boys Visit Charm School S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chalkboard S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dancing Hearts T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Deep Sleep T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doorknob People T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Graduation Day T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heart Throb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
L.B.S. T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Labyrinth T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Minotaur T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prom Night T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schools Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Splash T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Theseus T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Virgin Slayer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: Alan Watts, TR, 1991
Page Views: 84 total · 1/month
Shared By: ferrells on Jun 30, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

The crux section of this route constitutes one of the better thin finger cracks in the park. It's overhanging, technical, and totally awesome. It was really fun to tr solo, and I think it would make a great training route for someone who climbs 5.10 cracks, and would like to work some more advanced technique.
The downside, or upside, depending on your persuasion, is that it's fairly short (if the crux lasted for sixty feet, it'd easily be 5.13). Above the overhanging fingers, the route gets a bit dirtier and much easier.

Location

At the far right end (climber's right) of the student wall, just before the 5.8, Graduation Day, which is just before the rock jumble.
You can identify it from the top by finding a bolt for Graduation Day, and then backtracking to the next anchors. Or from the ground by looking for an overhanging finger crack right off the deck.

Protection

TR off a couple of bolts. Maybe this hasn't been led? In his new guide, Watts says that it's been TR'd. He usually mentions "first lead" as well. Maybe you could be the first?

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