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Routes in The Textbooks

Avant Garde T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bad Manners T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Man on Campus T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Block Party TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boys Visit Charm School S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chalkboard S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dancing Hearts T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Deep Sleep T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doorknob People T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Graduation Day T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heart Throb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
L.B.S. T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Labyrinth T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Minotaur T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prom Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schools Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Splash T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Theseus T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Virgin Slayer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Unknown, 1970's.
Page Views: 656 total, 10/month
Shared By: Derrick Peppers on May 29, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Start up a right leaning large flake and into the off-width crack with a smaller crack next to it for protection. The crux comes high after the corner widens.

Location

left of the only real bolted line in the textbooks (chalkboard). look for a crack that you can walk into.

Protection

The book says gear to 2.5" but I used no larger than 1" and only one cam. It eats nuts. Rap anchors on top.

Photos

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Kyle Tarry
Portland, OR
Kyle Tarry   Portland, OR
No offwidth technique required for this one in my opinion, given that you can stem between the two cracks. Jun 16, 2017
Kim Shepard  
 
There are now bolts with D rings at the top of this climb. I found this one pretty challenging for a 5.7, but I'm no offwidth expert. Sep 11, 2016
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.7
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.7
You will not use gear larger than 1" on this climb, unless you have at least a #5. Very much an off-width climb. Aug 4, 2015