Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Textbooks

Avant Garde T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bad Manners T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Man on Campus T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Block Party TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boys Visit Charm School S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chalkboard S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dancing Hearts T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Deep Sleep T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doorknob People T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Graduation Day T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heart Throb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
L.B.S. T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Labyrinth T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Minotaur T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prom Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schools Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Splash T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Theseus T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Virgin Slayer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown, 70's
Page Views: 437 total, 5/month
Shared By: ferrells on Jun 12, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A flaring slot with crappy finger locks for the first twenty feet make this feel like it would fit in better in Yosemite than Smith. I ended up knee scumming/chimneying to get through. Really fun if you like that sort of thing. The rest of the route is a walk.
Start behind a detached block, about twenty feet right of the Minotaur anchor.

Location

Twenty feet right of the Minotaur anchor, start behind a detached block, in a flaring body-sized corner.

Protection

Thin gear. Or just TR.

Photos

- No Photos -
ferrells  
 
Thanks for the comment - it's one of the best comments I've read on this site, and amplifies the value of this page tremendously. Jun 30, 2010
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
In early May 2003, my good friend was just beginning to lead... he had about 5-10 leads under his belt and tied on to attempt Big Man on Campus. He got through the initial start just fine, and was nearing the top-out, out of view of me belaying. Next thing I know, I see him falling out of the sky to my left and the new rope starts slow him down. The rope catches him, but not before he hits a small ledge, breaking his tib/fib, and dislocating his ankle at 90 degrees in the process. He later told me he was getting pumped at the top and decided to dynamically lunge for the rim of the basalt, and found it to be slopey. He took a 35ft ride and was held by a 00 powercam!!! Good thing it was a Metolius cam in solid basalt, because that cam held and likely saved his life. An Epic high angle rescue from the north side of the river, surgery, and recovery ensued. By mid August, we were living and climbing in Toulomne together! It was definatley a beginner's judgement error, but the posting of this route gave me the desire to tell the abbreviated story. We still climb together to this day. Jun 17, 2010