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Routes in The Textbooks

Avant Garde T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bad Manners T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Man on Campus T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Block Party TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boys Visit Charm School S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chalkboard S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dancing Hearts T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Deep Sleep T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doorknob People T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Graduation Day T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heart Throb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
L.B.S. T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Labyrinth T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Minotaur T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prom Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schools Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Splash T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Theseus T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Virgin Slayer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Unknoun, 1970's
Page Views: 61 total, 2/month
Shared By: Derrick Peppers on Apr 30, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This route starts the same as Heart Throb until you reach the roof. At this point, clip the optional bolt and move into the crux shuffle right under the roof. The feet were probably once great but now the have rubbed those edges into a slick polished surface that makes the feet a little questionable. Move around the corner and try to avoid getting your rope eatan by the roof corner. Move left across the face to the left crack and top out. One bolt up top. Building an anchor is a little difficult but can be done.

Location

Look for the unmistakable left facing dihedral a hundred yards south of the short section of the Textbooks. This route is the right side of the roof above the dihedral.

Protection

If your a seasoned trad climber, you'll find the protection quit adequate. If your new to the trad game, you might be a little spooked by this climb, gear wise. Don't expect much for a top rope anchor. I wouldn't trust the lone bolt up there either. You'll figure out something.

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