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Routes in The Textbooks

Avant Garde T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bad Manners T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Man on Campus T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Block Party TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boys Visit Charm School S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chalkboard S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dancing Hearts T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Deep Sleep T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doorknob People T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Graduation Day T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heart Throb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
L.B.S. T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Labyrinth T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Minotaur T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prom Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schools Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Splash T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Theseus T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Virgin Slayer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR, 45 ft
FA: Alan Watts, TR, 1991
Page Views: 58 total, 1/month
Shared By: ferrells on Jun 30, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Another technical 5.10 in the Textbooks. I thought the opening moves were totally vicious - getting over the mantel was pretty nasty, at least the way I did it. Someone should comment if there's actually a 10b way of doing it. It felt like I was doing something stupid (although it was really fun).
After that, the moves are good, with lots of edges and pockets. Worthwhile both for the finish and for the tricky bulge at the start.

Location

The fourth set of anchors working back, along the rim, from the end of the Textbooks.

Protection

TR on bolted anchor.
Apparently, there's a large loose block (hence the name) partway up. I never noticed it while tr soloing, but keep your belayer out of the way just in case.

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