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Routes in The Textbooks

Avant Garde T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bad Manners T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Man on Campus T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Block Party TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boys Visit Charm School S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chalkboard S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dancing Hearts T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Deep Sleep T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doorknob People T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Graduation Day T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heart Throb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
L.B.S. T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Labyrinth T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Minotaur T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prom Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schools Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Splash T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Theseus T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Virgin Slayer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown, 70's
Page Views: 323 total, 4/month
Shared By: ferrells on Jun 30, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

A great route that only adds value to setting up the anchor on the Minotaur. Due to the swing, even the TR has an air of intimidation. Clipping a piece or two along the way, even for the toprope, isn't a bad idea.
Contrary to appearances, the moves aren't too bad until you get to where it meets up with Minotaur. At that point, you run into a funky exit from the roof. Go for it! Highly recommended.

Location

With your anchor on Minotaur, start as you would for Virgin Slayer, but boldly head right under the roof instead of left.
As with Minotaur, back this one bolt anchor up with the bolts behind it.

Protection

Gear to 1" for the roof (cams would be nice), I think, and 2" for the finishing cracks. Or just TR it.

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