Type: Trad
FA: Wayne Arrington and Ken Currens 1975 (FFA)
Page Views: 3,019 total · 38/month
Shared By: Jon Rhoderick on Sep 8, 2013
Admins: Kevin MP, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Golden Eagle Closures in the Monument Area Feb-Aug Details

Description

35M of perfect crack climbing with a monumental position. Getting to the base of the crack is a challenge, from above or below your in for an adventure. This crack would be a classic anywhere in North America.

After climbing Tombstone climb the choss chimney above. There is no belay anchor.

Due to rockfall hazards, do not attempt to access this climb if anyone is climbing below you.

Location

Either climb Abraxas (5.11 and 5.12 pitches on bad rock) or rap in from above. The gully between Puddy's Tower and the Monument is a decent way getting to the top (takes an hr from the parking lot). Scramble up 5th class rock by several options (good quality) to the rap anchors( 2 ropes or a 70M). The rock on the rappel is horrible. Anchors are to the rappeler's left. Rap down the crack with a 70M rope. The entire route could probably be rappelled to the ground on a 70M

Protection

2 new lead bolts, multiple button heads. The crack goes from .75 to 3 Camalots range, triples in gold and red nice but not necessary. Finger sized cam is nice before the first bolt

Photos