Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Monument Base Area

Abraxas T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Approaching The Twilight S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bagpiping in the Buff S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lounger S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moore, Please? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Praying Mantel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snow Bunny S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tombstone Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Wayne Arrington and Ken Currens 1975 (FFA)
Page Views: 2,114 total, 41/month
Shared By: Jon Rhoderick on Sep 8, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Golden Eagle Closures in the Monument Area Feb-Aug Details

Description

35M of perfect crack climbing with a monumental position. Getting to the base of the crack is a challenge, from above or below your in for an adventure. This crack would be a classic anywhere in North America.

After climbing Tombstone climb the choss chimney above. There is no belay anchor.

Due to rockfall hazards, do not attempt to access this climb if anyone is climbing below you.

Location

Either climb Abraxas (5.11 and 5.12 pitches on bad rock) or rap in from above. The gully between Puddy's Tower and the Monument is a decent way getting to the top (takes an hr from the parking lot). Scramble up 5th class rock by several options (good quality) to the rap anchors( 2 ropes or a 70M). The rock on the rappel is horrible. Anchors are to the rappeler's left. Rap down the crack with a 70M rope. The entire route could probably be rappelled to the ground on a 70M

Protection

2 new lead bolts, multiple button heads. The crack goes from .75 to 3 Camalots range, triples in gold and red nice but not necessary. Finger sized cam is nice before the first bolt
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
yeah I can't remember since I didn't lead that choss pitch thank God! I don't think it was too big of an issue. He may have even tied into the rap anchor at the top. Feb 9, 2016
Great pictures Jplotz

I agree with you: first come, first served and also that people down low need to understand the risks they are incurring climbing those routes and hopefully never have to face the consequences. As an aside, what did you guys do for an anchor after the final pitch? I didn't find much satisfactory gear but there was a giant hole big enough for me to give a very confident body belay!
Jon Feb 5, 2016
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
The description says do not attempt if people are climbing below you. My friend Chris and I started extra early for this reason. No one was there when we hiked by to start up the gully to the top of the monument.

We rapelled down to the bottom of the crack, and noticed a large group of people had gathered on the bottom pitches a few hundred feet below us in the meantime. Since we bothered to get up early to climb the crack it was our opinion that it was their obligation to wait for us to finish the route before they started climbing. However they climbed anyway, and had to dodge a few rocks that had cut loose.

So my opinion is if you start early enough and no one is climbing at the base as you walk by, then you have the right of way on tombstone crack if you approach it from above. Feb 5, 2016