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Tombstone Crack
5.10c/d,
Trad,
Avg: 3.8 from 12
votes
FA: Wayne Arrington and Ken Currens 1975 (FFA)
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (v) Monument Area
> (7) The Monument
> Monument Base Area
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details:
smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
35M of perfect crack climbing with a monumental position. Getting to the base of the crack is a challenge, from above or below your in for an adventure. This crack would be a classic anywhere in North America.
After climbing Tombstone climb the choss chimney above. There is no belay anchor.
Due to rockfall hazards, do not attempt to access this climb if anyone is climbing below you.
Location
Either climb Abraxas (5.11 and 5.12 pitches on bad rock) or rap in from above. The gully between Puddy's Tower and the Monument is a decent way getting to the top (takes an hr from the parking lot). Scramble up 5th class rock by several options (good quality) to the rap anchors( 2 ropes or a 70M). The rock on the rappel is horrible. Anchors are to the rappeler's left. Rap down the crack with a 70M rope. The entire route could probably be rappelled to the ground on a 70M
Protection
2 new lead bolts, multiple button heads. The crack goes from .75 to 3 Camalots range, triples in gold and red nice but not necessary. Finger sized cam is nice before the first bolt
![Hans moving through the last climby bits of this crack after climbing Abraxas. Fantastic movement on the best tuff crack I've tried at Smith!]()
[Hide Photo] Hans moving through the last climby bits of this crack after climbing Abraxas. Fantastic movement on the best tuff crack I've tried at Smith!
![Not the most accessible, but undoubtedly one of the greatest 5.10 crack lines around.]()
[Hide Photo] Not the most accessible, but undoubtedly one of the greatest 5.10 crack lines around.
![A pair climbing the money pitch]()
[Hide Photo] A pair climbing the money pitch
![Near the top of 35 meters of crack climbing goodness! Can't beat the position!]()
[Hide Photo] Near the top of 35 meters of crack climbing goodness! Can't beat the position!
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Cashmere, WA
We rapelled down to the bottom of the crack, and noticed a large group of people had gathered on the bottom pitches a few hundred feet below us in the meantime. Since we bothered to get up early to climb the crack it was our opinion that it was their obligation to wait for us to finish the route before they started climbing. However they climbed anyway, and had to dodge a few rocks that had cut loose.
So my opinion is if you start early enough and no one is climbing at the base as you walk by, then you have the right of way on tombstone crack if you approach it from above. Feb 5, 2016
Redmond, OR
I agree with you: first come, first served and also that people down low need to understand the risks they are incurring climbing those routes and hopefully never have to face the consequences. As an aside, what did you guys do for an anchor after the final pitch? I didn't find much satisfactory gear but there was a giant hole big enough for me to give a very confident body belay!
Jon Feb 5, 2016
Cashmere, WA