Buzzer Beater
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Type: | Sport, 270 ft (82 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Dave McRae and Aimee Roseborrough. Jan 2020 |
Page Views: | 1,699 total · 29/month |
Shared By: | Dave McRae on Jun 11, 2020 |
Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Buzzer Beater is a fully bolted route with two pitches of high quality and varied action, followed by an exposed and scrappy, optional third pitch.
P1. 5.10c*** "Regulation Play". Easy huecos give way to techy moves on ragged rock followed by a few crack jams on better rock. 105 ft.
P2. 5.10c**** "Crunch Time". A bouldery start leads to crack moves on the best pitch of the route. 55 ft.
P3. 5.10d* "Overtime". Avoid the huge flake/ nest by stepping right to a grungy corner. Above the flake, make a crux step left to better rock on an exposed face to a finish in an alcove. 110 ft.
Strategy
The ledge atop the first pitch is the only comfortable belay on the route. If climbing the first two pitches only, it's recommended to link them, then lower to the top of the first pitch with a 70 meter rope.
If climbing the third pitch, either link it with the second, or belay at a chainless, 2-bolt anchor to the right of the chains atop the second pitch.
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