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North Ridge Direct
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British R
Type: | Trad, TR, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Unknown, 1950’s |
Page Views: | 1,096 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Derrick Peppers on Jan 8, 2019 |
Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
SOLO. While this route never puts you way out in space. It does have ankle breaking consequences at certain spots if you fall. There are anchors at the top so if you have at least one confident climber in your party, they can solo and bring you up on rope. This is a great easy “alpine” style adventure.
Hike along the north ridge buttress staying on the 3rd class ridge until a headwall stops the hiking. Follow good pockets and good feet on solid rock until you reach a ledge with anchor. From here it’s 2nd class to the summit.
This is a great rest day summit as Alan Watts states in his book. It’s super chill even though it looks a little intimidating from the base of the backside ridge.
Hike along the north ridge buttress staying on the 3rd class ridge until a headwall stops the hiking. Follow good pockets and good feet on solid rock until you reach a ledge with anchor. From here it’s 2nd class to the summit.
This is a great rest day summit as Alan Watts states in his book. It’s super chill even though it looks a little intimidating from the base of the backside ridge.
Location
Hike the left gully of the monument to the top backside with an obvious sharp ridge line going to the summit.
Protection
This route is recommended as a solo although you might be able to get some med to large gear at a couple points. Rap anchor or TR anchor at top. Descend by rapping the route or down climb the North Ridge chimney on the west side of the summit, then hike north along ledges back to the ridge line and trail.
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