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Routes in Bee Gorge North Wall

14: Pingheng ("Balance") S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
1: Fushi: Pumice T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A1-2
21: Unnamed: ["From Choss to Stardom"] T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
2: Chayidian: "Kinda Poor" T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
3: Unnamed [“Sharp n’ Airy”] S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
4: Unnamed ["Smile for the Camera... in the Shadow of the Great Wall"/SftC" T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
5: Digua: "Sweet Potato" T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
7: Banzhang: "Squad Leader" S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 125 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Liefeng and Houzi Jia, July 2004
Page Views: 72 total, 1/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on May 30, 2013
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

Pitch 1: As far as I know, this may be just “Sweet Potato” as a trad route as the line is virtually identical to the line for “Sweet Potato.” If there is, in fact, a differentiation, it is not apparent when climbing. Basically, climb Sweet Potato, which is the right-facing, left-leaning crack to the right of "Squad Leader" and to the left of "Smile for the Camera... in the Shadow of the Great Wall." Instead of going to the bolted anchor station, head to the ledge with 2 conspicuous trees just above. There is tat around one of the trees (I backed up the sun-bleached cord with rap webbing and some d-biners as of early fall 2012).

Pitch 2: (Unconfirmed) Climb out left and over the horizontally striated face to the left or climb up the dirty rock just above the belay station and ascend the rightmost, left-facing corner to the top of the cliff.

Descent: You can rap down with 2 60m ropes from the top of the cliff, if you can locate a strong enough tree. A lot of the foliage atop the cliff is scrubby. Otherwise, bushwhack east (right) down to the entrance of the crag. Because of the second pitch rating and the infrequency of trad in China, don’t expect much in the way of guidance in walking down form the top of the cliff.

Protection

A full rack including nuts, tricams, 6-8 single-length runners, 2 double-length runners, and active pro/friends from red C3 up to #4 Camalot. It's China, so you always have to expect a surprise when it comes to climbing in a country where the sport is so new.

For the descent: Rap off the tat around the tree or descend a few feet to the bolted belay station on the cliff face ~8 feet below, if you came to climb the first pitch only. If you climb to the finish, walk off or trust your life to the plant life atop the cliff for rapping; most (though not all) of the foliage is shrubs, s rapping might be a bit insecure.

Photos

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