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Routes in Bee Gorge North Wall

14: Pingheng ("Balance") S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
1: Fushi: Pumice T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A1-2
21: Unnamed: ["From Choss to Stardom"] T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
2: Chayidian: "Kinda Poor" T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
3: Unnamed [“Sharp n’ Airy”] S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
4: Unnamed ["Smile for the Camera... in the Shadow of the Great Wall"/SftC" T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
5: Digua: "Sweet Potato" T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
7: Banzhang: "Squad Leader" S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: CMDI, 2007
Page Views: 127 total, 2/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on May 30, 2013
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

An unnecessarily bolted corner climb towards the east end of the north wall. As a trad route, this line is quite enjoyable. The crux is slightly awkward, but protectable; it will probably get less awkward as more trad climbers do this route.

Climb the left-leaning, right-facing corner that widens about halfway up (could be cleaned a little bit here). The first crux is getting through the widening section of the crack.

Follow the re-constricting crack up until you are beneath an obvious roof. Protect (bomber cam placements above your head...) and move out right onto the face (second crux), and climb up to the anchor. The bolts are used to lower off the route. The multipitch tree anchor for “Kinda Poor” is just above on the ledge. You can continue upward or lower off.

Protection

A full rack including nuts, tricams, 6-8 single-length runners, 2 double-length runners, and active pro/friends from red C3 up to #4 Camalot. It's China, so you always have to expect a surprise when it comes to climbing in a country where the sport is so new.

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