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14: Pingheng ("Balance")
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
FA: | CMDI, 2007 |
Page Views: | 523 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Ryder Stroud on Jul 13, 2013 |
Admins: | Dan Flynn, Nate Ball |
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Description
A great, hard sport climb with the crux coming up high. This route will definitely test your endurance and sequencing.
Pull through a thin boulder problem immediately off the deck and maintain your focus to get to the first bolt if you are not stick clipping (still a bit scary until the second bolt).
The middle of the wall will let up a little bit in intensity, but not much. The top third of the route is the crux. Aim for a large triangular pocket beneath slightly slabbier terrain. Find an undercling and move right into the obvious corner (away from the bolt line--committing with pendulum potential) and continue on hard slab moves up to the anchor (doesnt let up from the pocket to the anchors).
Pull through a thin boulder problem immediately off the deck and maintain your focus to get to the first bolt if you are not stick clipping (still a bit scary until the second bolt).
The middle of the wall will let up a little bit in intensity, but not much. The top third of the route is the crux. Aim for a large triangular pocket beneath slightly slabbier terrain. Find an undercling and move right into the obvious corner (away from the bolt line--committing with pendulum potential) and continue on hard slab moves up to the anchor (doesnt let up from the pocket to the anchors).
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