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Routes in Bee Gorge North Wall

14: Pingheng ("Balance") S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
1: Fushi: Pumice T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A1-2
21: Unnamed: ["From Choss to Stardom"] T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
2: Chayidian: "Kinda Poor" T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
3: Unnamed [“Sharp n’ Airy”] S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
4: Unnamed ["Smile for the Camera... in the Shadow of the Great Wall"/SftC" T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
5: Digua: "Sweet Potato" T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
7: Banzhang: "Squad Leader" S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: CMDI, 2007
Page Views: 96 total, 2/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on Jul 13, 2013
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

A great, hard sport climb with the crux coming up high. This route will definitely test your endurance and sequencing.

Pull through a thin boulder problem immediately off the deck and maintain your focus to get to the first bolt if you are not stick clipping (still a bit scary until the second bolt).

The middle of the wall will let up a little bit in intensity, but not much. The top third of the route is the crux. Aim for a large triangular pocket beneath slightly slabbier terrain. Find an undercling and move right into the obvious corner (away from the bolt line--committing with pendulum potential) and continue on hard slab moves up to the anchor (doesn’t let up from the pocket to the anchors).

Protection

7 bolts + anchor

Photos

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