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4: Unnamed ["Smile for the Camera... in the Shadow of the Great Wall"/SftC"

5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British


 Avg: 3 from 1 vote

Routes in Bee Gorge North Wall

14: Pingheng ("Balance") S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
1: Fushi: Pumice T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A1-2
21: Unnamed: ["From Choss to Stardom"] T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
2: Chayidian: "Kinda Poor" T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
3: Unnamed [“Sharp n’ Airy”] S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
4: Unnamed ["Smile for the Camera... in the Shadow of the Great Wall"/SftC" T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
5: Digua: "Sweet Potato" T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
7: Banzhang: "Squad Leader" S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 73 ft
FA: CMDI, 2007
Page Views: 99 total · 2/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on May 30, 2013
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

The [nick]name says it all. Locate a bush growing about 20 ft. off the deck. The start of the route will have you pass the bush on the left side.

Climb the bolt line to the left of the twin cracks that mark the route “Sharp n’ Airy.” The route is defined by a wandering, rounded-edged crack. The bolt line is hard to miss. Climb the fairly sustained brack to the crux up high. Look right and you will be able to see one of the guard towers from the older sections of the GREAT WALL OF CHINA. Pass to the right of small tree growing from the face, and aim directly for a ledge next to a large, detached flake.

AVOID using the flake if you can: (1) using it makes the finish awkward and cruxy (2) it seems pasted on the face by some act of God…

Protection

9 bolts + anchor. 11-12 sport draws.

Photos

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