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Routes in Bee Gorge North Wall

14: Pingheng ("Balance") S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
1: Fushi: Pumice T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A1-2
21: Unnamed: ["From Choss to Stardom"] T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
2: Chayidian: "Kinda Poor" T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
3: Unnamed [“Sharp n’ Airy”] S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
4: Unnamed ["Smile for the Camera... in the Shadow of the Great Wall"/SftC" T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
5: Digua: "Sweet Potato" T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
7: Banzhang: "Squad Leader" S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Aid, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: & 29579 & 28392 ,& 38472 & 26198
Page Views: 82 total, 1/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on May 29, 2013
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

Pitch 1: Ascends the face and crack system just to the right of “Smile for the Camera…” and the arête of “Sharp n’ Airy.” Trending up and vaguely left towards the anchor station for “Sweet Potato.” Once you pass the top bulge, cut right, cut towards lower angle terrain and the bushes. Most of the foliage isn’t burly enough for tree anchors, so put up a gear anchor.

Pitch 2: (Unconfirmed) Continue up the obvious crack to the top of the cliff.

Descent: You can rap down with 2 60m ropes from the top of the cliff, if you can locate a strong enough tree. A lot of the foliage atop the cliff is scrubby. Otherwise, bushwhack east (right) down to the entrance of the crag. Because of the second pitch rating and the infrequency of trad in China, don’t expect much in the way of guidance in walking down form the top of the cliff.

Protection

A full rack including nuts, tricams, 6-8 single-length runners, 2 double-length runners, and active pro/friends from red C3 up to #4 Camalot. It's China, so you always have to expect a surprise when it comes to climbing in a country where the sport is so new.

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