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Routes in Bee Gorge North Wall

14: Pingheng ("Balance") S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
1: Fushi: Pumice T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A1-2
21: Unnamed: ["From Choss to Stardom"] T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
2: Chayidian: "Kinda Poor" T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
3: Unnamed [“Sharp n’ Airy”] S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
4: Unnamed ["Smile for the Camera... in the Shadow of the Great Wall"/SftC" T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
5: Digua: "Sweet Potato" T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
7: Banzhang: "Squad Leader" S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Fei Hu and Wu Peng
Page Views: 98 total, 2/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on Jul 13, 2013
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

A hidden trad gem on the north wall. Start ~50 ft. right and downhill from 春色满园 just to the left of a broken buttress. The start is a little hard to find; if you drift right, there will be a some loose rock. The best bet is to start beneath an obvious overhang halfway up the wall, to the right of an obvious right-facing (to my knowledge unclimbed) corner that runs to the top of the cliff. You are aiming for that short corner with an overhang above. Climb into the corner and up to the overhang, which will have a small, down-facing horn feature. Surmount the overhang to the face above and follow a beautiful, clean, curved, right-trending crack to the bolts.

Note: Another great trad route at the crag. The route is seldom climbed, hence why any drifting off the route line will encounter some loose rock. From the ledge above the broken buttress system, the climbing is steep, sustained, and very enjoyable. There is also a huge corner system about 30 to 40 feet to the left that has not been developed, and it looks like it would be a great trad line if developed.

Protection

- Bolted anchor station

- BD nuts (4-13)
- Cams to 3"
- 8 shoulder length slings
- 2 double-length slings

Photos

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