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Routes in The Trad Lands

Alan's Seam S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
BM Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big O Flyer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chopless T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corn Flake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dihedral TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Liar Liar T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Line It Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Ox S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Meat is Murder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mindless V-easy 3 R
Oxymoron T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Passerby V-easy 3 R
Resident Bush S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Startled S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tootsie Roll S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Traditions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
UnNamed S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Under The Table S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown Chimney to Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
X It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: Rolofson? Trout? Berks? Nelson? Wright?
Page Views: 366 total, 7/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 7, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a TR line between Under The Table and Tootsie Roll. It would be challenging to lead it, and the thin crack probably needs a scraping clean if one were to consider that.

Move up into the obvious, right-facing dihedral. Assuming you keep a foot on each side of the dihedral, you'll find a crux down relatively low where there really isn't much for the right hand. Reachable holds on the left keep this feeling ~5.10; however, Mark Rolofson's excellent 2010 Golden Rock Climbs guidebook rates this 5.11 (probably because he tried to avoid the holds on the left). There are two finishes, both are equal in difficulty.

Location

It is located between Under The Table and Tootsie Roll.

Protection

You can TR this off the bolted anchors with rings for Tootsie Roll.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
I agree that this is presently a top-rope line. It could be led with very small gear, but the placements would not be confidence inspiring. May 16, 2013