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Routes in The Trad Lands

Alan's Seam S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
BM Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big O Flyer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chopless T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corn Flake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dihedral TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Liar Liar T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Line It Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Ox S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Meat is Murder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mindless V-easy 3 R
Oxymoron T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Passerby V-easy 3 R
Resident Bush S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Startled S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tootsie Roll S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Traditions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
UnNamed S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Under The Table S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown Chimney to Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
X It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 3,165 total, 15/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Jan 12, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great trad crack line with a really cool lieback on the upper half. Start in a crack on a slab between "Startled" and "Resident Bush". Head straight up the cracks as the wall gets steep, then feed into a clean, shallow right-facing corner that ends at a pair of bolts for a convenient toprope or lower-off. If you didn't bring gear, it's worth hiking round the top and reaching over the edge to rig a toprope.

Addendum: there is a TR variation of the upper half of the climb on the left. There is also a variation on the right, 5.7.

Protection

Standard gear rack to a pair of anchor bolts with rings.

Photos

NickinCO
colorado
  5.8+
NickinCO   colorado
  5.8+
Stepping left at the ledge and climbing the face crack goes at about 5.8 also. Very sustained but never too difficult. The most sustained climb I've done at North Table, and it almost made me not hate the place so much. It protects very well with stoppers, led it with passive gear only. Much better this way than following the right-facing dihedral. I actually thought this was the line. 3 stars for sure. There's way too many feet available to call it 5.9. Apr 14, 2014
Buff Johnson
  5.9-
Buff Johnson  
  5.9-
Good fingercrack & stem moves in blocky sections, I used small cams and a hand-sized cam 3" (4.0 TF); crux section took a red Alien & was solid (I vote 5.9- for a couple of moves if you commit to use only the fingercrack at the crux). Placing nuts was a friggin pain & an exercise in futility for me. Mar 6, 2006
shad O'Neel  
 
One of the coolest [cracks I've] found yet at [Table], intimidating, but it sorts itself right out. Nice climbing. Jan 17, 2004