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Routes in The Trad Lands

Alan's Seam S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
BM Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big O Flyer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chopless T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corn Flake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dihedral TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Liar Liar T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Line It Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Ox S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Meat is Murder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mindless V-easy 3 R
Oxymoron T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Passerby V-easy 3 R
Resident Bush S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Startled S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tootsie Roll S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Traditions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
UnNamed S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Under The Table S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown Chimney to Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
X It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 1,831 total, 9/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Jan 12, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start in an alcove with a shallow corner on the left with a scratchy bush growing out of it. Clip the first bolt (just right of the bush), then figure out how to climb past or over the foliage without getting entangled and scratched. Please do not remove the shrub - it was there first, and it is possible (albeit inobvious) to climb past it without getting thrashed. Continue on up the arete and face above to a ledge on top. The anchors are on the wall above the ledge, and are easily accessible from the top.

Addendum: beware, there is a block that shifts a half inch just below the 4th bolt.

Addendum: you can go up the crack right of the 1st bolt, and traverse at the 2nd bolt for an 8+.

Protection

Six bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings.

Photos

Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.9
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.9
Choices: easiest way up = 5.8+, belly to the bolts = 10+. Lots of variations to this top anchor, including multiple trad lines to right. Feb 7, 2017
Dana Pearson
Golden, CO
Dana Pearson   Golden, CO
Left my Birkenstock sandals at the bottom on this route on Sunday (Feb. 5th) - if anyone sees them, please let me know! Brown, size 39 - pearson1204@gmail.com or 414-403-2248. Thanks! Feb 6, 2017
rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
Scott is right, that block (with 2 Xs on it) is just standing there, waiting to be trundled. I avoided it without difficulty. And, now with 6 bolts, you don't have to actually climb the crack to the Resident Bush. Feb 1, 2010
Hmmm...I meant to say, 'Fun moves on really crappy, loose stone.' Another block lies in wait just left of the fourth bolt; resist the temptation to pull hard on this jugga. Mar 3, 2002
While I was climbing up at Table on 2/22/02 a climber was injured on this climb after some blocks came loose as he was climbing. The blocks came off from the left of the arete near the second and third bolts. I believe that the climber was dropped while the belayer attempted to dodge the (large) falling debris. He was, luckily, wearing a helmet and did not suffer any life threatening injuries, a badly broken leg and various cuts were the only things evident at the scene. I don't think that the climb has been seriously altered, just a word to be careful and watch for the loose stuff. Feb 25, 2002
Fun route! The climbing seems to ease up (5.9) after the bush. Fun moves and solid stone make this pretty enjoyable. Jan 23, 2002