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The Trad Lands Rock Climbing
Routes in The Trad Lands
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Alan's Seam S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Big O Flyer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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BM Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Chimney Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Chopless T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corn Flake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Dihedral TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Last Stand of the Trad Lands T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Liar Liar T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Line It Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Little Ox S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Meat is Murder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mindless V-easy 3 R |
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Oxymoron T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Passerby V-easy 3 R |
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Resident Bush S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Startled S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tootsie Roll S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Traditions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Under The Table S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unknown Chimney to Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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UnNamed S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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X It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Elevation: | 6,388 ft |
| GPS: |
39.76828, -105.21725 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 51,804 total · 190/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Please Obey Speed Limits & Rim Rock Trail Closure
Details
It's likely few climber go there, but it may affect the adventurous.
Description
In the Spring of 2001, Alan Nelson added about a dozen or so lines in this area. Note, many of these lines may have been climbed by at least the late 1980s. Most of the climbs are under 70 feet in length, and most of these are moderate in difficulty falling within the range of 5.7 to 5.10. Presently there is a rough 50:50 split between trad and bolted routes, so if you are looking for several fine 5.8/5.9 trad pitches, this is a great spot. The rock quality is overall very good and the bolting generous. The trad pitches mostly have double-bolt lowering stations, sometimes shared with an adjacent bolted line. Good sun and fun climbing to be had in this new area.
Routes from L->R:
Passerby, V easy.
A. Little Ox, 7+, 1p, 30' or 50', bolts.
B. Oxymoron, 6, 1p, 50', gear.
C. Big O Flyer, 8-, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Line It Up, 7, 1p, gear.
E. X It, 9, 1p, 50', bolts. Roof.
F. Startled, 8 or 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Unknown Chimney to Crack, 8+, 1p, 50', gear or TR.
H. Liar Liar, 8 or 10- or 7, 1p, gear; slab to crack to RFD.
I. Resident Bush, 9, 1p, 48', bolts.
J. Traditions, 9, 1p, 50', gear.
K. Chopless, 8-, 1p, 60', gear.
L. Corn Flake, 8- PG-13, 1p, 60', gear.
Under The Table area
M. Last Stand of the Trad Lands, 7, 1p, 60', gear.
N. BM Route, 7 or 10, 1p, 60', bolts; "BM".
O. Unknown Face, 8, 1p, 50', gear.
P Tootsie Roll, 7+, 1p, 50', bolts.
Q. Dihedral, 10 or 11, 1p, 50', TR.
R. Under the Table, 10 or 11, 1p, 40', bolts. Tan slab.
S. Chimney Crack, 6, 1p, 40', gear or TR.
T. Alan's Seam, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts.
U. Meat is Murder, 8, 1p, 60', gear.
V. Mindless, V-easy R.
W. Unknown, 10, 1p, 60', gear.
Unnamed, 5.10-, 1p, bolts; ?location.
Getting There
Just follow the trail west to the Mind Mantel Arete and the detached boulder at its base. The climbing starts just to the west of the arete/boulder and continues west to the wash that provides an easy approach to the top.
Per Brent Kelly: the GPS coordinates are: 39.768277, -105.217240.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Trad Lands
Sun Angles Details:
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