The Trad Lands Rock Climbing
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|Page Views:||51,804 total · 190/month|
|Shared By:||Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
It's likely few climber go there, but it may affect the adventurous.
In the Spring of 2001, Alan Nelson added about a dozen or so lines in this area. Note, many of these lines may have been climbed by at least the late 1980s. Most of the climbs are under 70 feet in length, and most of these are moderate in difficulty falling within the range of 5.7 to 5.10. Presently there is a rough 50:50 split between trad and bolted routes, so if you are looking for several fine 5.8/5.9 trad pitches, this is a great spot. The rock quality is overall very good and the bolting generous. The trad pitches mostly have double-bolt lowering stations, sometimes shared with an adjacent bolted line. Good sun and fun climbing to be had in this new area.
Routes from L->R:
Passerby, V easy.
A. Little Ox, 7+, 1p, 30' or 50', bolts.
B. Oxymoron, 6, 1p, 50', gear.
C. Big O Flyer, 8-, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Line It Up, 7, 1p, gear.
E. X It, 9, 1p, 50', bolts. Roof.
F. Startled, 8 or 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Unknown Chimney to Crack, 8+, 1p, 50', gear or TR.
H. Liar Liar, 8 or 10- or 7, 1p, gear; slab to crack to RFD.
I. Resident Bush, 9, 1p, 48', bolts.
J. Traditions, 9, 1p, 50', gear.
K. Chopless, 8-, 1p, 60', gear.
L. Corn Flake, 8- PG-13, 1p, 60', gear.
Under The Table area
M. Last Stand of the Trad Lands, 7, 1p, 60', gear.
N. BM Route, 7 or 10, 1p, 60', bolts; "BM".
O. Unknown Face, 8, 1p, 50', gear.
P Tootsie Roll, 7+, 1p, 50', bolts.
Q. Dihedral, 10 or 11, 1p, 50', TR.
R. Under the Table, 10 or 11, 1p, 40', bolts. Tan slab.
S. Chimney Crack, 6, 1p, 40', gear or TR.
T. Alan's Seam, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts.
U. Meat is Murder, 8, 1p, 60', gear.
V. Mindless, V-easy R.
W. Unknown, 10, 1p, 60', gear.
Unnamed, 5.10-, 1p, bolts; ?location.
Just follow the trail west to the Mind Mantel Arete and the detached boulder at its base. The climbing starts just to the west of the arete/boulder and continues west to the wash that provides an easy approach to the top.
Per Brent Kelly: the GPS coordinates are: 39.768277, -105.217240.
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