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Elevation: 6,388 ft 1,947 m
GPS: 39.76828, -105.21725
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 52,536 total · 184/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Please Obey Speed Limits & Rim Rock Trail Closure DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

In the Spring of 2001, Alan Nelson added about a dozen or so lines in this area. Note, many of these lines may have been climbed by at least the late 1980s. Most of the climbs are under 70 feet in length, and most of these are moderate in difficulty falling within the range of 5.7 to 5.10. Presently there is a rough 50:50 split between trad and bolted routes, so if you are looking for several fine 5.8/5.9 trad pitches, this is a great spot. The rock quality is overall very good and the bolting generous. The trad pitches mostly have double-bolt lowering stations, sometimes shared with an adjacent bolted line. Good sun and fun climbing to be had in this new area.

Routes from L->R:

Passerby, V easy.

A. Little Ox, 7+, 1p, 30' or 50', bolts.

B. Oxymoron, 6, 1p, 50', gear.

C. Big O Flyer, 8-, 1p, 50', bolts.

D. Line It Up, 7, 1p, gear.

E. X It, 9, 1p, 50', bolts. Roof.

F. Startled, 8 or 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.

G. Unknown Chimney to Crack, 8+, 1p, 50', gear or TR.

H. Liar Liar, 8 or 10- or 7, 1p, gear; slab to crack to RFD.

I. Resident Bush, 9, 1p, 48', bolts.

J. Traditions, 9, 1p, 50', gear.

K. Chopless, 8-, 1p, 60', gear.

L. Corn Flake, 8- PG-13, 1p, 60', gear.

Under The Table area

M. Last Stand of the Trad Lands, 7, 1p, 60', gear.

N. BM Route, 7 or 10, 1p, 60', bolts; "BM".

O. Unknown Face, 8, 1p, 50', gear.

P Tootsie Roll, 7+, 1p, 50', bolts.

Q. Dihedral, 10 or 11, 1p, 50', TR.

R. Under the Table, 10 or 11, 1p, 40', bolts. Tan slab.

S. Chimney Crack, 6, 1p, 40', gear or TR.

T. Alan's Seam, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts.

U. Meat is Murder, 8, 1p, 60', gear.

V. Mindless, V-easy R.

W. Unknown, 10, 1p, 60', gear.

Unnamed, 5.10-, 1p, bolts; ?location.

Getting There Suggest change

Just follow the trail west to the Mind Mantel Arete and the detached boulder at its base. The climbing starts just to the west of the arete/boulder and continues west to the wash that provides an easy approach to the top.

Per Brent Kelly: the GPS coordinates are: 39.768277, -105.217240.

25 Total Climbs

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Location: The Trad Lands Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Trad Lands

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 115
Liar Liar
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 151
X It
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 47
Traditions
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 158
Alan's Seam
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Liar Liar
 115
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
X It
 151
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Traditions
 47
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Alan's Seam
 158
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Trad Lands »

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