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Routes in The Trad Lands

Alan's Seam S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
BM Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big O Flyer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chopless T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corn Flake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dihedral TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Liar Liar T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Line It Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Ox S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Meat is Murder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mindless V-easy 3 R
Oxymoron T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Passerby V-easy 3 R
Resident Bush S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Startled S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tootsie Roll S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Traditions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
UnNamed S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Under The Table S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown Chimney to Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
X It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,996 total, 12/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Nov 3, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is the second bolted line left of Under the Table, and is identified by the letters "BM" on the rock just right of the route. I don't know the real name of the route, so I'm calling it "BM Route" in prefererence to "Unknown 5.9".

Locate the smooth tan slab of Under the Table, go 40' left, and spot the letters "BM" about 20' up the rock. The route starts here.

Climb up to the second bolt, move right to a hand crack, and continue past 3 more bolts to the anchor. The start can be done either left or right of the bolt line; both variations are about 5.9. Going straight up is somewhat harder.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Tombo
Boulder
 
Tombo   Boulder
 
I went up to this route thinking 5.9, no problem. Well I assume that rating is based on before the big flake (and crack on right) fell off. I felt it was 5.9 to the second bolt and then to stick to the arete... who knows maybe 5.10 in dry (not humid) conditions but no way it's 5.9 now. I ended up using the left hand crack features till I could reach some face jugs to clip the bolts from and then moved back to the arete.

I agree w/ Jay the rock around the last bolt did seem funky, fortunately the climbing is easy there. May 24, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10a
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10a
The last bolt before the anchors looks like it is in a block that may fall off like the pillar below it did. Beware. Feb 5, 2011
rob bauer
Golden, CO
  5.10b
rob bauer   Golden, CO
  5.10b
I did this today and vaguely remember the flake I used a few years ago which made it much easier. What's the consensus rating now that a huge amount of rock is now missing? (Glad I wasn't there for that.) It felt about 5.10b to me; I'm 5'8". Apr 26, 2009
Bill C.
Fort Collins, CO
Bill C.   Fort Collins, CO
Try to climb JUST the arete with no stemming on either side, just follow the crack line. Great jams and pretty tricky foot work. Fun route! Mar 14, 2009
Buff Johnson
  5.10a
Buff Johnson  
  5.10a
Straight up on the arete is sequential & balancy moves; I felt it was more technical than taking one side or the other. The crack to the right offers great jams to crank. After the fourth bolt, take that clean face to the right of the arete to finish out hard. Stemming & chimney out left can give you an easier time of it, I think about 5.6 -- I can also see the intended line being 5.8+, this route is unique in the variant moves you can try (that's what I like about N Table). A nice suggestion by the man who climbs with a Tigger on his butt. Aug 26, 2006
shad O'Neel  
 
A fun Table Mountain moderate. Thoughtful getting to the hand crack. Jan 17, 2004
Richard, I posted the first comment. I hear you about time. I live near Golden (NW Denver) and don't make it up there that often. I have some bolting experience and would like to pitch in and help. I find for the cost, the Fixe rappel anchors do pretty well, but offer too much of an opportunity to top rope through. Could you add links to them and keep it still safe and cost effective? Putting up sport routes isn't cheap. The Fixe catalog has some really cool systems. Nov 12, 2003
This is a great route at Table. I have climbed it many of times. I always thought it was a stout 5.8. I think the anchors need to be replaced. I know one is a spinner. Nov 10, 2003