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Routes in The Trad Lands

Alan's Seam S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
BM Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big O Flyer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chopless T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corn Flake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dihedral TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Liar Liar T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Line It Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Ox S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Meat is Murder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mindless V-easy 3 R
Oxymoron T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Passerby V-easy 3 R
Resident Bush S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Startled S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tootsie Roll S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Traditions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
UnNamed S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Under The Table S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown Chimney to Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
X It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 1,641 total, 8/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Jan 12, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


56 Opinions

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Description

This route tackles the buttress just right of "X It". The crux is a boulder problem right off the ground past the first bolt, with a unique flange pinch for the left hand. Once you are standing on the flange, you can move left and up along cracks, flakes, and face to a big ledge. Clip the last bolt on "X It", but climb holds to the right to a shared anchor at the top of the wall.

Protection

5 bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings.

Photos

William Thiry
Lakewood, CO
  5.9
William Thiry   Lakewood, CO
  5.9
I started climbing the right side of the buttress but backed off because the left side looked better - which it was. The left side is probably easier, but it's a more logical line to the 2nd bolt, and a better line in my opinion. The 1st bolt should be placed 2 feet higher to be of any use if one chooses to stay right. Mar 7, 2014
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
  5.8
The rating on this is way off. 10a?! I went there last night and lead it without knowing the rating. It took me a while to find it on here because I was searching for a 5.8. This one is easier than X It which is the 9 next to it (and even that is a one move climb to perhaps make it a 9)

Maybe I bypassed the crux as the other comment suggested... but I seemed to follow the bolts and not using available holds is a bit contrived.

None the less it is a fun climb. You should not be intimidated by the rating... I probably wouldn't have tried it if I knew it was a 10a. Jul 29, 2008
Buff Johnson  
 
Bypassing the crux by stemming right then moving up & left to the second bolt, makes this a fun 5.8, you could take a couple of 1-1.5" cams & hand sized 2.5-3" if you wanted to practice some trad in between the bolts. Aug 26, 2006
Giving this route a 10a rating is quite generous. Jan 10, 2002