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Routes in The Trad Lands

Alan's Seam S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
BM Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big O Flyer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chopless T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corn Flake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dihedral TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Liar Liar T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Line It Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Ox S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Meat is Murder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mindless V-easy 3 R
Oxymoron T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Passerby V-easy 3 R
Resident Bush S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Startled S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tootsie Roll S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Traditions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
UnNamed S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Under The Table S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown Chimney to Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
X It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 1,762 total · 8/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Jan 12, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details


This route tackles the buttress just right of "X It". The crux is a boulder problem right off the ground past the first bolt, with a unique flange pinch for the left hand. Once you are standing on the flange, you can move left and up along cracks, flakes, and face to a big ledge. Clip the last bolt on "X It", but climb holds to the right to a shared anchor at the top of the wall.


5 bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings.


Giving this route a 10a rating is quite generous. Jan 10, 2002
Buff Johnson  
Bypassing the crux by stemming right then moving up & left to the second bolt, makes this a fun 5.8, you could take a couple of 1-1.5" cams & hand sized 2.5-3" if you wanted to practice some trad in between the bolts. Aug 26, 2006
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
The rating on this is way off. 10a?! I went there last night and lead it without knowing the rating. It took me a while to find it on here because I was searching for a 5.8. This one is easier than X It which is the 9 next to it (and even that is a one move climb to perhaps make it a 9)

Maybe I bypassed the crux as the other comment suggested... but I seemed to follow the bolts and not using available holds is a bit contrived.

None the less it is a fun climb. You should not be intimidated by the rating... I probably wouldn't have tried it if I knew it was a 10a. Jul 29, 2008
William Thiry
Las Vegas
William Thiry   Las Vegas
I started climbing the right side of the buttress but backed off because the left side looked better - which it was. The left side is probably easier, but it's a more logical line to the 2nd bolt, and a better line in my opinion. The 1st bolt should be placed 2 feet higher to be of any use if one chooses to stay right. Mar 7, 2014
Larry Shaw
Boulder, CO
Larry Shaw   Boulder, CO
I tried the bear hug option up the bulge then decided the chalk to the left was a more reasonable option. May 13, 2018

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