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Routes in The Trad Lands

Alan's Seam S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
BM Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big O Flyer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chopless T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corn Flake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dihedral TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Liar Liar T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Line It Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Ox S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Meat is Murder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mindless V-easy 3 R
Oxymoron T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Passerby V-easy 3 R
Resident Bush S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Startled S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tootsie Roll S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Traditions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
UnNamed S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Under The Table S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown Chimney to Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
X It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: a lizard
Page Views: 495 total, 7/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 11, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a little line whose upper half makes you think about climbing it. It is not listed in either Mark Rolofson's excellent guidebook or Jason Haas' colorful guidebook. It certainly has been climbed, maybe it dates back to the Burk brothers. It's just another line to do if you've done laps and laps on Liar, Liar.

You can start the same as for Liar, Liar or ascend the easy chimney just to the left. About 20 feet up, you move right on interesting knobs just right of the chimney. Gain that crack squiggling up the small face. Top out at Liar, Liar's 2 bolt anchor.

Location

This is between Startled and Liar, Liar on the right side of Trad Lands.

Protection

A rack with some large cams for the bottom and smaller gear for the top or you can TR off Liar, Liar's anchor.
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
The crux on this is in the chimney about halfway up. The rest of the moves seemed about 5.6. This is not a great route but is worth doing if you have done everything else in the area. Jan 18, 2013