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Routes in The Trad Lands

Alan's Seam S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
BM Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big O Flyer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chopless T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corn Flake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dihedral TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Liar Liar T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Line It Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Ox S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Meat is Murder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mindless V-easy 3 R
Oxymoron T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Passerby V-easy 3 R
Resident Bush S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Startled S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tootsie Roll S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Traditions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
UnNamed S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Under The Table S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown Chimney to Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
X It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Dan Hare, [Moe Hershoff], et al, 1999
Page Views: 1,627 total, 8/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 8, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Description

Left of Alan's Seam is a very blank looking face that was created recently when a large section of the wall fell away. This pale white face was bolted up a couple of years ago and has turned into an improbable but very interesting climb. The climbing begins by powering up on the right hand arete for several moves before stepping over into the face. A delicate series of moves gains a horrizontal seam. Stay in balance! The move to make the last clip is done with no hands on the wall. Above the seam, the line can be finished on the right (easier) or on the left. This route poses an interesting mental game with fine, delicate footwork.

Protection

Half a dozen draws and a rope. The anchor has Fixe rings.
D. Snyder
Golden, CO
  5.10b/c
D. Snyder   Golden, CO
  5.10b/c
Got on this route yesterday without knowing the grade. We came in slightly from the right of the first two bolts and then up the face/arete just to the right of the bolts. There is no way this is .11, I'd give it 10b maybe c. Jan 27, 2017
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Really contrived. Fun 5.10 climbing, but if you completely eliminate the arete, it is way harder than 5.11. It is silly to only eliminate it in some spots, and otherwise if you can always use it, the climb is more like 5.10. Dec 20, 2016
Kent Pease
Littleton, Colorado
Kent Pease   Littleton, Colorado
A good word for this climb is that there IS a fun bouldery sequence to start and get established at the second bolt. Ascend just left or almost in-line with the first two bolts. This is a natural and fun set of moves w/o eliminates and is well worth doing. The moves are not easy and are tricky to decipher but flow well and are satisfying. The climbing may be better graded on the V-scale (V3?).

After that: I agree with the statements above regarding contrived line and difficulty – make it as hard or as easy as you want. Dec 4, 2015
mmk
Golden, CO
  5.11d
mmk   Golden, CO
  5.11d
To get full 11d value, stay on the bolt line! Don't step out right and use the huge hands on the arête, and don't wander out left to the other wall where there are huge foot holds. If you use the arête or the other wall, probably 11a or 11b. Nov 3, 2013
sstrauss
Denver
  5.11b/c
sstrauss   Denver
  5.11b/c
I don't know if I'd bomb it, but I definitely agree with Gabe's comments. Staying strictly on the face takes it up a notch, without a doubt. Once you reach the blank-ness, it's extremely hard to tell what's on and what's off. Resist the urge to stem off the pillar to climber's left and see what happens. Contrived? Yes, but it'll make you use your imagination. Nov 8, 2011
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
Glad I read the last two comments. I had seen the same thing in the guidebook about the right hand arete, and figured it was 'off route'. Got totally shut down on the opening moves - it's way harder than 11b if you don't use that arete at the start. Jun 21, 2010
GabeO
New Haven, CT
 
GabeO   New Haven, CT
 
This route sucks. The route description in the current guidebook says the route follows the bolts throughout. NO WAY can you stay on the face throughout and have it be 11b. I've done 13a routes that were easier. If you follow the description listed here (migrate back and forth between the right side and the face), you get a series of moves that are doable at the grade, but IMO, this does not make a route. It's completely contrived, since the face basically peters out several times, forcing you to go back to the right side. The right side, meanwhile, is consistently climbable - there's nothing to push you back to the face except that that's where the bolts are. May 10, 2010
Ralph Kolva
Evergreen, CO
  5.11d
Ralph Kolva   Evergreen, CO
  5.11d
Well protected, fun route. The starting moves are stiff if staying out of the crack to the right, thin edge for the right hand and a two finger hold for the left, stick the nail head foot hold with the left foot. Cruise for a few moves then make the no hands move avoiding the temptation to grab the right edge. Then make the last tough move on the thin edges for feet to the good left hand and crank up. BTW, I don't believe back stepping onto the dihedral behind you is keeping the 11 grade. Dec 19, 2009
The no-hands move is easily my favorite at Table. I doubt this is as hard as 11d, which is a little past my range. The anchors can be reached after climbing the route to the left, if necessary. Jun 23, 2005
These anchors can be reached with shameless ease when lowering from the 5.8 to the left. The move from the seam is a blast, but it does take a little effort to get there. Nov 11, 2003