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Routes in The Trad Lands

Alan's Seam S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
BM Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big O Flyer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chopless T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corn Flake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dihedral TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Liar Liar T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Line It Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Ox S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Meat is Murder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mindless V-easy 3 R
Oxymoron T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Passerby V-easy 3 R
Resident Bush S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Startled S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tootsie Roll S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Traditions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
UnNamed S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Under The Table S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown Chimney to Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
X It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 2,411 total, 12/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Jan 12, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


87 Opinions

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Description

Start in a shallow crack on a slab leading to a ledge. Above the ledge, stay outside on the face rather than grovelling up a gully on the right. This puts you in a short, left-facing corner topped by a roof with a crack/seam splitting the headwall above. A fun move turns the roof but ends much too soon on a big ledge. One more clip on the wall above brings you to the anchors (shared with "Startled", which comes in from the right).

Protection

Six bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings.
Mark
Lafayette, CO
Mark   Lafayette, CO
There are a couple loose rocks commonly used as handholds just below the roof. Mar 16, 2017
William Thiry
Lakewood, CO
  5.10a
William Thiry   Lakewood, CO
  5.10a
The one powerful move to get over the roof is reasonably rated at 10a - especially given the fact that the layback/side-pull for the right hand is polished. 5.11 climbers may feel it's easier, but 5.10 and lower climbers will find it's more than a casual 5.9 move. Just one move though. Some of the moves getting up to the roof and especially getting into position if you are a tall person can be delicate and awkward. Mar 7, 2014
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.9
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.9
Super fun roof, much easier than it looks and easier than the 10a listed in the new book for sure. Jun 18, 2010
rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
Buff's right, no bolt under the roof. It's an easy reach to the bolt over the roof. Definitely not 10a, as listed in the new book. [Where they list it as Route 168, in the Overhang Area (Second Crag) section.] Feb 1, 2010
Buff Johnson
  5.9
Buff Johnson  
  5.9
You know, looking at the beta pic, there's not that bolt under the overhang to this climb. OR, could be a mixed-pro climb being in the "Trad Lands". Apr 23, 2007
Jeremy Hakes
Golden, Colorado
  5.9-
Jeremy Hakes   Golden, Colorado
  5.9-
The move through the roof is a lot of fun! You definitely have to commit to it, but it is well worth it. Apr 25, 2006
shad O'Neel  
 
Really fun, kinda powerful and better than it feels move through the roof, worth your time for sure. Jan 17, 2004