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Routes in Totem-Proto Area

Chicken Shit Salad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Direct North Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Drop 'em South S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fern Gully Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fruits of Optomisim, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
GTKO T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inertia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Milk of Manatee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Original Optomist T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Overcoming Inertia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pathological Optimist T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pipe Bomb T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pipe Cleaner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Protean Catch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Proto Pipe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Proto Type T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shakin' & Eggs T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Totem Pole Direct S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Totem Pole, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Up in Smoke T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: David Sampson and Arjun Heimsath
Page Views: 451 total, 8/month
Shared By: arjunmh on Apr 8, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Start in the north facing crack system between the Protean Catch arete and the Pipe Cleaner corner and head up towards the prominent roof and bulge of Protean Catch. Cross left beneath the arete and bolte and get into a chossy and scary corner that we need to clean more. This corner leads to a committing though well protected southeast facing face with delicate moves that leads to the top and the same anchors as used for the above two climbs. Certainly not for the timid.

Two bolt anchor with quick links and chain links -- same anchors as for Pipe Cleaner.

Location

Upslope of Proto Pipe, between the above mentioned climbs and obvious from the photo.

Protection

All trad, double rack, some nuts, and a hell of a lot of caution to avoid the loose rock.
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Agreed! I am assuming that we'll clean it up better next time in there, in which case hopefully it'll be better than a bomb!! May need a crowbar, though, or a real pipe bomb. Hence the name. Apr 10, 2013
I rated this climb as a "bomb" because of the scary loose rock. If we get back to clean it I will likely give it a higher rating because it was fun and exposed. Apr 10, 2013