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Routes in Totem-Proto Area

Chicken Shit Salad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Direct North Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Drop 'em South S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fern Gully Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fruits of Optomisim, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
GTKO T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inertia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Milk of Manatee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Original Optomist T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Overcoming Inertia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pathological Optimist T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pipe Bomb T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pipe Cleaner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Protean Catch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Proto Pipe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Proto Type T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shakin' & Eggs T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Totem Pole Direct S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Totem Pole, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Up in Smoke T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Arjun Heimsath and David Sampson
Page Views: 550 total, 10/month
Shared By: arjunmh on Apr 8, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

This is the route that drew us upslope from Proto Pipe. It ascends the prominent sharp arete that gets you to the top of a hidden tower that has exceptional exposure. It's not really visible from anywhere because it doesn't skyline, but when we started exploring up above Proto Pipe this tower and route stood out. The rock quality isn't as good as we hoped and hence the 2 rather than 3 stars. 3 stars for the exposure and for getting to the top of this fantastic and improbably spire! Some tricky and heady moves, but mostly well protected climbing and we put bolts where the gear felt especially sketchy.

Location

Upslope of Proto Pipe, ascend the sharp looking prominent arete that faces Proto and get to the top of a thin spires. Two bolt anchor with quick links and chains attached.

Protection

3 bolts and a selection of at least a single rack, if not a double.
Paul Zander
Bern, CH
  5.9+ PG13
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
  5.9+ PG13
Are there really 3 bolts on this? I looked and could only find 2. must've gone too far right... Oct 18, 2016
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Pulled the loose rock off the top of the first arete. The dust should wash off with the next storm. Definitely a fun climb, especially if you stay on the arete for as much of it as possible. Now that the rubble is off it's in much better condition. Dec 5, 2015
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.10-
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.10-
Finally catching up on my feedback after two weeks running around like mad. Climbed this with Arjun early this month and actually had a lot of fun. Very exposed but reasonable climbing at the top. A single set of cams and stoppers did the trick.

I looked the arête at the top, particularly where I had to step around left to open air. Nice climb Arjun and David! Mar 19, 2014
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Good to get on this again yesterday, but it reminded me that the top of the first arete is still covered with loose rock that I haven't cleaned off -- there are always dogs around the base that make throwing so much loose stuff off difficult. Climb carefully around this and be aware that your rope may pull stuff off if you let it pile up on the ledge while pulling (i.e. pull to climber's right of the arete). Mar 10, 2014
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Ah, I'll change the description -- I edited it on the other 4 climbs, but must've forgotten to edit this one. Sorry. A couple weeks ago David and I went in and climbed all the new routes we'd set and replaced the biners with chains such that the biners wouldn't be bootied and the anchors can be used either as TR anchors with the leader adding a couple quickdraws, or just belay from the top (recommended given the views from the tops of all these towers) and then rap off the chains. Thanks for the heads up! May 17, 2013
James Willis
Gilbert, Arizona
  5.9+
James Willis   Gilbert, Arizona
  5.9+
It seems that the two biners on the chains were bootied as of Sunday, 5/12 May 14, 2013
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Thanks, and also sorry to not have done it together. It was you and Austin's efforts on the new Totem Pole routes that got David and me back over to this area. There are certainly many cool looking routes on good looking rock left to develop here! Yes, looking forward to being out there together. Apr 12, 2013
Aaron Collins
Santan Valley, AZ
Aaron Collins   Santan Valley, AZ
LOL You WIN!!! Great minds think alike. That is so cool, yet so disappointing a the same time. We have got to get together and climb. Apr 12, 2013