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Routes in Totem-Proto Area

Chicken Shit Salad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Direct North Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Drop 'em South S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fern Gully Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fruits of Optomisim, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
GTKO T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inertia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Milk of Manatee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Original Optomist T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Overcoming Inertia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pathological Optimist T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pipe Bomb T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pipe Cleaner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Protean Catch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Proto Pipe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Proto Type T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shakin' & Eggs T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Totem Pole Direct S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Totem Pole, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Up in Smoke T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,459 total, 16/month
Shared By: RyanJames on Feb 24, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Somewhat chossy opening leads to excellent climbing on excellent rock. If desired, top out and check out the view atop this pinnacle.

Location

Just up the hill from the Totem pole.

Protection

About 9 bolts.

Photos

arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11 R
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11 R
According to Marty's book this was established in '91 by Andy Marquardt and Leo Henson. Given the wandery nature of the bolts, the runout, and the excellent clipping holds (well, for someone a few inches taller than me!), I'm guessing it was done ground up. Can safely say that doing so was a tremendous achievement! Apr 8, 2013
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11 R
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11 R
Wow, this would be a 4 star route if the crappy rock quality that makes for a scary start was cleaned up a bit and the bolts placed a bit farther left. Getting up to that rest ledge before the 4th bolt puts your mind in the right space to deal with the upper runout. Phew! It is possible to use small gear to supplement and get through some of the runout. The upper runouts are definitely scary, but the fall would be clean (think Adios Larry). Excellent rock quality after that rest ledge and very fun, delicate and thoughtful movement to get through it all cleanly. The sweet mono was definitely helpful! Apr 8, 2013
Good quality spire, some difficult moves 2/3 of the way up. A rest half way helps for the crux, also there is a sweet mono just before the top at the end of the crux. Amazing view no doubt. Dec 10, 2012
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.11 PG13
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.11 PG13
Poor rock for the opening moves leads to better, spicy climbing above. May 26, 2011