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Routes in Totem-Proto Area

Chicken Shit Salad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Direct North Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Drop 'em South S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fern Gully Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fruits of Optomisim, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
GTKO T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inertia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Milk of Manatee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Original Optomist T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Overcoming Inertia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pathological Optimist T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pipe Bomb T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pipe Cleaner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Protean Catch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Proto Pipe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Proto Type T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shakin' & Eggs T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Totem Pole Direct S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Totem Pole, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Up in Smoke T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Geir, Marcy, Rick C
Page Views: 460 total, 8/month
Shared By: Geir on Apr 24, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

This route starts at the second weakness to the left of Chicken Shit Salad. To my knowledge it is the first route to top out on this formation.

Pitch 1 - Climb the crack past a bolt to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 - Traverse directly left to a bolt. Clip it, move up & left past a second bolt, then traverse around the arete to the east face. Work up the left side of this face on exposed terrain protected by bolts and small gear. The pitch ends on top of the tower that forms the lower summit of the formation. Kinda bold and scary.

Pitch 3 - A short pitch to the top of the formation. Belay in the middle of the summit at a bolt and a gear placement.

Descent: Rap to the top of pitch two. From here rap down the chimney to the top of pitch one. One more rap takes you to the ground.

Pitch 2 and 3 still need a bit of cleaning so be cautious repeating this route until this has been done.

Location

Second weakness left of Chicken Shit Salad. See beta photo.

Protection

Stoppers, Singles to #3 Camalot. Extra .4"-1" cams.

Photos

arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Way to go Marcy and Geir! Great to see these posted and thanks for the pic of Minas Morgul! I look forward to getting on these two climbs of yours, though I think we're nearing the end of Lower Devil's season this year. Shall see what the coming weekend brings. Hope you'll had a great trip to Red Rocks! Apr 29, 2013