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Up in Smoke
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 2.8 from 4
votes
Routes in Totem-Proto Area
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Chicken Shit Salad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Direct North Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Drop 'em South S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fern Gully Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fruits of Optomisim, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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GTKO T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Inertia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Milk of Manatee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Original Optomist T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Overcoming Inertia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pathological Optimist T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pipe Bomb T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pipe Cleaner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Protean Catch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Proto Pipe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Proto Type T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shakin' & Eggs T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Totem Pole Direct S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Totem Pole, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Up in Smoke T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 105 ft (32 m) |
| GPS: | 33.27587, -111.02832 |
| FA: | Geir and Marcy |
| Page Views: | 1,506 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Geir www.ToofastTopos.com on Jan 31, 2014 |
| Admins: | Zach Levy, Sierra Blair, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area
Details
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.
You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website – theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page – facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…
Description
This is a bold and steep route up the south face of the Proto Pipe. You will need a cool head, a good eye for gear placements, and some endurance for this one.
Climb through a section of poor rock protected by three bolts. After this, the committing climbing begins. Find a series of good holds that are just right of a small dihedral. Climb well above your last bolt to a stance, place some gear, and then follow a few widely spaced bolts past two bulges to a crack near the top. There are a number of good holds on this climb that are a little hard to see from below, so if you find yourself trying to pull on a heinous crimp look around a bit.
Gear can be found between the bolts although there is potential for some long falls. I'm right on the fence as to whether this is PG13 and R, so for now I have posted it as an R.
I think this climb weighs in at 10+, Marcy felt it was harder.
5 Comments