Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Aaron Rough
Page Views: 1,622 total · 21/month
Shared By: Rough on Oct 6, 2012 with updates from John Stilley
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptors have left the quarry, all normal walls are open Details
Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Description

Start up the pillar on good rails. Big holds separated by big moves.

Location

Farthest left on the Scale Wall.

Protection

3 bolts

Photos

Colton L
Colorado
 
Colton L   Colorado
 
Didn't notice any glaring issues with that first bolt. It may have been fixed by the time of this post. No pro needed.

It's a super short route. Despite the easy grade, the .7 to the right climbs just as easy and may be better for a new leader. Jan 27, 2017
Nic Crumley  
 
Super short route. Very muddy. Much better routes at that level can be found at the quarry. Feb 11, 2017
John Stilley
California
  5.6
John Stilley   California
  5.6
WARNING: There is a wall of dirt just to the left of this route. Last month I saw two people deck in the same day, because they grabbed the dirt wall thinking it was stable rock (no injuries). Even at the best of times this route is dirty. Yes, it is a very easy, very short route. But make sure your newbie climbers are aware of the dirt/rock wall interface. Jun 8, 2017
Rough
  5.6
Rough  
  5.6
John: Take a deep breath. Taste that? Hopefully it's fresh *outdoor* air... Auburn isn't a gym. Yes, there is dirt and mud both at the top of climbs and invariably on the climbs, especially this year as a result the significant rainfall. This too shall pass my friend. Many of the routes will need a lot of cleaning over the next few months to clean off the dirt. This is a cyclic process that happens every year at Auburn, regardless of rainfall, but the amount of rainfall impacts how long the "mud and crud" persist. Well, at least that's my perspective from having developed the majority of the routes and having climbed there longer than 99.9% of any person(s) who actually takes the time to read this. Jun 8, 2017
Eric L
Roseville, CA
  5.6
Eric L   Roseville, CA
  5.6
Added spring clips to the chains at the top (7.8.17). Let's see if they wear out as fast as the ones I left on the top of TFS a year ago ( which are clearly being used as TR anchors). :( Also snugged both anchor bolts, right was worse (hanger spinning) than left.
Jul 10, 2017
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Those spring clips are JUNK and should not be on those anchors. Feb 9, 2018
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
 
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
 
+1000

Get rid of those. Feb 9, 2018
Eric L
Roseville, CA
  5.6
Eric L   Roseville, CA
  5.6
Spring clips are fine for lowering - people should NOT be TRing off the fixed anchor hardware anyway. I have some mussy hooks that would hold up better (see top of community chest). Regardless, I wouldn't TR off them either; "fixed HW" is for lowering. If someone removes the spring clips, PM me - I'd like them back.

EDIT... @Kyle - yes, rated to 460lbs each (for lowering!!!). If the community is not OK with them, that's fine I'll remove them and take them with me... and leave it with bare chain (as I found it). Yes, I already have mussy hooks, but they aren't recommended for TRing either (they can snag the rope or come open). I was only giving people a better option for lowering - will "tuck tail" and let others maintain the gear here. Nov 13, 2018
Kyle Bishop
Nevada City, CA
Kyle Bishop   Nevada City, CA  
ClimbTech sells dirt-cheap climbing-rated mussy hooks at $6 each. climbtechgear.com/top-ancho…

They aren't stainless but they will need replacement from wear well before that becomes an issue. The steel is ridiculously thick so I'd expect us to get at least a decade out of them in even the most heavily trafficked areas.

@Eric L are those things rated? They look terrifying and I'd be extremely surprised if they're safe... Unless you are 100% positive they are climbing rated, INCLUDING the gate, they should be taken off immediately. Nov 13, 2018