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Routes in Scale Wall

Booty Crack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gold Dusty S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gone Coastal S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Landslide S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
M+M S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rainy Daze TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scale Wall S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scooby Snacks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Finger Salute S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Norman Boles and George Watson, late 80's or early 90's
Page Views: 3,540 total · 18/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Oct 18, 2002 with updates from Brooks Andrew
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Raptors have left the quarry, all normal walls are open Details
Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Description

Climb the second route from the right on the Scale wall, just to the left of Landslide (5.8).

Climbing is sustained up the crack, keep moving so you don't run out of gas! Well protected, though still dirty in the top sections.

The top of the route is considerably simpler, but you've got 45 feet of traversy crack before you get there!

Protection

7 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. Walk around the right of the rock to gain access to the top anchors for a top rope.

Photos

M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Best route on the wall. Mar 3, 2013
Colin Szehner
Oakland, Ca
Colin Szehner   Oakland, Ca
Awesome climb up the crack, sustained and technical. However I am curious about the bolt placements being below the crack on the traverse..... Sep 25, 2013
John Leeman
Davis, California
 
John Leeman   Davis, California
 
This route needs a name! How do feel about "Scale Wall" Aaron?? Oct 13, 2013
Craig Thornley
Auburn, California
 
Craig Thornley   Auburn, California
 
We've been calling it Smooth Scaling. Jan 26, 2014
Rude Boy
San Francisco, CA
  5.10b/c
Rude Boy   San Francisco, CA
  5.10b/c
Not too shabby! Exceeded my expectations. I found decent hands on crimps and pockets all the way up but not so good feet in spots. Sections of smearing on the traverse. Yeah the bolt placements are kinda weird on the traverse but manageable. May 13, 2014
Dan Austin
San Francisco, CA
  5.10c
Dan Austin   San Francisco, CA
  5.10c
Tons of fun, buckets the whole way with some crappy feet giving it the grade in the beginning! Aug 20, 2014
Latvian climber
  5.10c
Latvian climber  
  5.10c
Loved this climb! Such cool features on it. The fist pocket at the top is awesome and so is the gaston seam at the bottom, and the arcing cracks the rest of the way. Would be even better except for all the dirt. Jan 12, 2015
kennethsime
Berkeley, California
kennethsime   Berkeley, California
Jim Thornburg gives deems this route the eponymous "Scale Wall." May 30, 2016
King Tut
Citrus Heights
 
King Tut   Citrus Heights
 
This route was put up by Norman Boles and George Watson in the late 80's or early 90's IIRC. Cant' remember what they called it but I placed the original anchors and took a top rope on it right after they dug it out that was the FA. They bolted and lead it later.

PS: I talked it over with George and they couldn't remember what they named it so after talking about it with my old friend Jim Thornburg decided to retain Scale Wall as as good a name as any. We would appreciate it if you removed "Goldfingers" as the name of the route from this route description. Jun 16, 2016
Mike Ferrell
San Francisco, CA
 
Mike Ferrell   San Francisco, CA
 
This climb was a ton of fun. Significantly more difficult if you go slow on the first 2 bolts and get pumped before the crack traverse.

Careful of the X'd hold near the bolts Aug 22, 2016
Max Rausch
Portland, OR
  5.10a
Max Rausch   Portland, OR
  5.10a
Incredibly fun, but 10c? Really? Maybe in gym. Jan 30, 2017

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