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Routes in Scale Wall

Booty Crack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gold Dusty S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gone Coastal S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Landslide S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
M+M S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rainy Daze TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scale Wall S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scooby Snacks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Finger Salute S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Norman Boles and George Watson
Page Views: 1,427 total, 8/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Oct 18, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details
The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Description

This is currently the fourth bolted route from the left on the scale wall.

Getting past the first two bolts is definitely the crux, so be confident in your abilities.

Climb up through a committing first section to easier climbing above. Past the second bolt, this route is probably a 5.8.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

King Tut
Citrus Heights
King Tut   Citrus Heights
Hey Rough,

As discussed elsewhere the FA party couldn't remember the original name of "Scale Wall" as just one of many, many routes they have put up all over the place. Jim Thornburg named it when he put his guide to print. I talked with Jimmy about it and honestly, Scale Wall is a decent name as the rock features resemble it etc. If you really want to know any others you might contact Bob Branscomb (currently in Lander IIRC) as he did some routes there maybe, or Peter Mayfield as he was curious about the place when we first visited there as the dawn of Sport Climbing made it a viable place to start doing routes (ie rapping down to prep a route). Oct 10, 2017
Rough
 
Rough  
 
Hey KT: Good to finally get some of the real names! This has been a long standing question and one that I have repeatedly contacted local FA'ist, posted on MP, Rockclimbing dot com (in it's heyday) and Supertopo requesting if anyone knew the actual names.

Read the below post as it is the exact scenario you described. I started calling Quirky the 5.9 and On Demand the 11c (both on the Memorial Wall) when asked but was always very clear that they were not my route nor were those names assigned by the FA'ist(s). I didn't suggest any of the other names as you can see by the topo still attached to MP:

docs.google.com/file/d/0B-J…

I have talked to Dale (of PG), Eric Kohl, and appealed multiple time to the climbing community at large for the info as the the below post ... from 2013 can attest to. Ultimately, they were named because of the pressure from print guidebooks.

So the question is, what other names do you know? What did the FA'ist call the 10c? I am super curious! Everyone wants to get the record straight, thanks for helping!

supertopo.com/climbing/thre… Sep 28, 2017
King Tut
Citrus Heights
King Tut   Citrus Heights
TYVM Lurker. If the same can be done for Scale Wall it would be appreciated. Sep 27, 2017
Lurker
Verdi, NV
Lurker   Verdi, NV  
Route name and FA info updated. Sep 27, 2017
King Tut
Citrus Heights
King Tut   Citrus Heights
@caughtinside: Look, I get that people are not trying to disrespect anyone but what "surfaced" was Mt. Project where people report other people's rock climbs to an e-guide as a public service. More power to them and props.

That does not for a second mean they get to name the routes w/e they want, not by a long stretch.

If a guide book author going to print decides to name something that has gone "unknown" for many years that is one thing, and they have more license imo. Donny Reid and Jim Thornburg have done this in the past with my routes and I have no complaint when in book form. If it mattered that much to me I would have reported the routes.

These routes in question however are the very first routes ever put up at Auburn quarry and there was no one to "report" FAs to keep the knowledge and in fact, when these routes were done climbing was not technically allowed there. To now casually assume that anyone can report someone else's route and choose a name for them is wrong. A MP post is not a guidebook where the author is trying to "complete" the book and publish hundreds or thousands of routes. MP is just a minute's effort but the effect can be enduring.

ps. If I seem annoyed its because people are making these changes **after** I pointed out the preferences of the true FA party. I guess I should pm Aron...

--Regards, John Tuttle Sep 27, 2017
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Hey Tut,

Not a fan of renaming routes either but this one was "unknown" for probably 20 years before you surfaced. I don't think any disrespect was intendend, but I I do agree it should be renamed to Booty Crack now that the original name is known. Sep 27, 2017
King Tut
Citrus Heights
King Tut   Citrus Heights
wtfover, I sure wish people would stop naming routes when they did not do the first ascent.

This is how it goes people: You get to name stuff YOU did the FA of, not slap names on other people's routes just because you want to...If you don't know the name, then it is "unknown" to you. Deal with it.

It's called respect for the people that put up the very first routes there. Sep 26, 2017
King Tut
Citrus Heights
King Tut   Citrus Heights
FA on this one too is Norman Boles and George Watson, 1991."Booty Crack". Nov 6, 2016
Bryce Yaple
Provo, Utah
Bryce Yaple   Provo, Utah
Super fun route! good to learn sport on but not a total walk in the park. The crux is about 5.10 but after the 3rd bolt its a 5.8 cruise for sure. Aug 15, 2014
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
  5.10a
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
  5.10a
Decent route not R rated in any way the lower bolt seems ridiculous but the first moves are the crux.... still the landing isn't that bad if you did happen to fall with your feet 2' off the ground. Jan 4, 2014
Rough
 
Rough  
 
This route is now rebolted and ready to go thanks to Brian Poulsen! Thanks Brian and ASCA for providing the hangers and bolts to fix the ones that were previously vandalized!! Oct 22, 2012
Somebody bolted a sixth bolt a few feet from the ground to help protect the crux move before the higher (now second) bolt. The route seems like a 5.8 after the crux. Apr 7, 2003