Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: Aaron Rough
Page Views: 5,188 total · 26/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 19, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptors have left the quarry, all normal walls are open Details
Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Description

Fifth route from the left on the scale wall. Climb up the slab using huge jugs with good feet. This climb is stretchy enough where it will be a good warm up, and a good exercise for someone who hasn't climbed outdoors before.

The route is a bit runout for a 5.8, but the crux is protected and near the top.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

Photos

Fun route with giant holds. I would call this a gym 5.8. Apr 7, 2003
tdrace  
I like to call this route the "Booger Route" for the boogery type holds on the wall. Feb 8, 2013
Boriss
Sacramento
Boriss   Sacramento
About half way on the crack/arĂȘte on this route is a loose flake. Be careful on the holds. Apr 7, 2013
Manny Segovia
Sacramento, California
  5.7+
Manny Segovia   Sacramento, California
  5.7+
super fun, very much like a gym climb with really cool holds. I would only give it a 5.7 outdoors tho. I really like the sick slimy looking holds on it. also a super clean lead. could be a first outdoor lead for and 5.8 gym climber Apr 21, 2014
River Saul
Oakland, CA
  5.7+
River Saul   Oakland, CA
  5.7+
The first and third bolts have been cut. I brought up some nuts to protect but placement was not bomber. Was confident in not falling so I continued on. May 30, 2016
kennethsime
Berkeley, California
kennethsime   Berkeley, California
I was there two weeks ago or so and some of the hangers were definitely moving, I don't know about sketchy though. I'm pretty sure someone removed the hangers, possibly because they were sketch (I don't know how to judge that stuff). May 30, 2016
Rough
 
Rough  
 
M&M is 17 years old and I would guess to be the most climbed route in Auburn. I've replaced the hangers on that route 3 times. I replaced almost every hanger on the Scale Wall and the Memorial out of pocket except for a few donated ACA hangers. Sorry guys, this crap needs to start being picked up by the climbing community.

If a hanger spins, it's because it needs tightened. It's not sketchy, it's not "dangerous" unless the hanger is near the end of the stud or away from contact with the wall. Hand tighten it down, let someone with a wrench go up and tighten snug.

You shouldn't yank the hanger. The same thing has happened several times at Auburn because people new to climbing don't have a basic understanding of the mechanics of bolts and climbing in general out of the gym. LEAVE IT FOR SOMEONE WHO DOES!

Given it is the 1st and 3rd bolts, my bet is on ignorance, not theft. Jun 1, 2016
Heather Dolan
Oakland
 
Heather Dolan   Oakland
 
Hi guys, I'll happily pay to replace the bolts and or hangers for these routes. The anchor bolts have been removed on the furthest right most climb too. In my opinion that shouldn't be even climbed until there is an actual anchor. Maybe just me, but I like to put my life on at least two bolts. I just need to know what to buy (and how many) and have someone who knows what they are doing put them back in.
I greatly appreciate all those individuals who take their own personal time and effort to make outdoor climbing possible. I can meet anytime in the morning. Sep 20, 2016
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
  5.8
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
  5.8
I believe CRAGS is doing some route maintenance out there soon. My buddy and I are letting them borrow our drill. Sep 20, 2016
Eric L
Roseville, CA
  5.8
Eric L   Roseville, CA
  5.8
As of Nov 5th 2016, 3 hangers missing - #1, 2, 4. Number 3 and the anchors still in place. Bolts look to still be in place. Unfortunately, I didn't bring any nuts (no humor intended) with which to secure hangers (which I had). Didn't inspect the bolts to confirm if they are OK. Anyone know the bolt size (3/8 or 10mm)? Nov 7, 2016
Ron C
Sacramento, CA
Ron C   Sacramento, CA
Placed new hangers on M&M. Back in business. Nov 8, 2016
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.8
This route has some really cool limestone drips on it, much like the inside of a cave. Not too often you run into that kind of rock! Dec 26, 2017
Lorenzo Riano
San Francisco
  5.7
Lorenzo Riano   San Francisco
  5.7
I think this should be no more than a 5.7, the holds are really good Nov 10, 2018