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Routes in Scale Wall

Booty Crack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gold Dusty S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gone Coastal S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Landslide S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
M+M S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rainy Daze TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scale Wall S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scooby Snacks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Finger Salute S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Description

This colorful and featured limestone rock lives up to it's name. The rock was ground down by some sort of mining, and now contains many features that are definately not natural. Provided that you get over that, some of the routes on this wall are quite fun!

Ranging in height from 40 feet to 70 feet, there are routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.11, most of them sustained. All routes are bolted, but if you enjoy cheating death, you can also lead many of the limestone routes using protection. Some of the rock is still quite loose, so double and triple check any and all placements.
Access Notes Details
The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Getting There

Estimated time from the parking lot: 20 minutes.

From the entrance to the Auburn Cliffs Valley, this is the rock on your immediate left that looks like it's been devoured by a huge machine.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Scale Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
M+M
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scooby Snacks
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Booty Crack
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scale Wall
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
M+M 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Scooby Snacks 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Booty Crack 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Scale Wall 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Scale Wall »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Was out there last weekend. Didn't have any problem with rocks breaking off. I think since it is late in the season it is pretty well cleaned by now. I had fun climbing here, some good, easier routes that are well bolted. Sep 27, 2017
David J. Riley
Rocklin, CA
David J. Riley   Rocklin, CA
In addition to the prior comments PLEASE USE CAUTION when hiking to the top of Scale wall. I have witnessed people dislodge big rocks and nearly maim others below including myself.

If you cannot Lead the routes on the wall and by-pass it by hiking to the top to set a top rope then be well aware you are accountable for the well being of others. So, be responsible and ask some one who is competent or find a climbing partner who can do it safely. Jun 6, 2017
FourT6and2
San Francisco, CA
FourT6and2   San Francisco, CA
November, 2016. Lots of chopped bolts and chopped anchors here. Some of the routes can't be climbed because of it.

Also, lots of rock coming loose and falling. A microwave-sized block came off the wall and came about 2 feet from hitting someone.

Also, people walking around up top for some reason, kicking off rocks and debris.

Not an enjoyable place to climb. I've been here a couple of times and it's just getting ridiculous how bad the climbing is. Nov 13, 2016
V.C. C
Folsom, CA
V.C. C   Folsom, CA
I would highly recommend wearing a helmet when climbing/belaying at Scale Wall. We have witnessed loose blocks falling out from this wall more than once, some of them as big as 1-liter Nalgene bottles. And please note that the rocks at the top of the cliff can be easily dislodged and roll off the wall too. I would really recommend wearing helmets at this particular wall. Oct 24, 2016
Rough  
Just to be clear, there is not a single route on the Scale Wall with any epoxy. As for the dirt, it is a Quarry and you are climbing there in the winter which will be its "dirtiest" time. I do agree and will say though the Scale Wall is a face that does get a solid coating of dirt every winter due to how it sheds water / mud from the top of the cliff during rain. Come back in late spring through fall for cleaner climbing on this wall. Jan 4, 2014
Chandler Heppe
Nevada City, CA
Chandler Heppe   Nevada City, CA
Really didn't enjoy this wall, every route is terribly dirty. It has some moderately rated climbs for beginners but even for that there are way better places to learn than this wall coated in dirt and apoxy. Jan 3, 2014

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