PRINT: Rock Climb Gone Coastal, Lake Tahoe

Gone Coastal

5.6, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),

Avg: 1.3 from 83 votes
FA: Aaron Rough
California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Auburn & Grass… > Auburn SRA > Cave Valley (ak… > Scale Wall

Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Most of Auburn SRA is open from 7 am to sunset. Leave early enough to be off the trails before dusk. Most parking requires self registration fees in cash envelopes (or annual state park passes), and is enthusiastically enforced. Check the Auburn State Recreation Area website at parks.ca.gov/?page_id=502 for current information. Note that the park's policy is that technical roped climbing is only permitted in the Cave Valley/Quarry area - outside the fenced private quarry at the back. Unroped climbing - aka bouldering or DWS - is allowed everywhere with a safe landing.

Description

Start up the pillar on good rails. Big holds separated by big moves.

Location

Farthest left on the Scale Wall.

Protection

3 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Proper hooks installed courtesy of ASCA

Gone Coastal @ Auburn. Easy warm up.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Colton L
Colorado

Didn't notice any glaring issues with that first bolt. It may have been fixed by the time of this post. No pro needed.

It's a super short route. Despite the easy grade, the .7 to the right climbs just as easy and may be better for a new leader. Jan 27, 2017

Nic Crumley
Gold River, CA

Super short route. Very muddy. Much better routes at that level can be found at the quarry. Feb 11, 2017

John Stilley
California

5.6

WARNING: There is a wall of dirt just to the left of this route. Last month I saw two people deck in the same day, because they grabbed the dirt wall thinking it was stable rock (no injuries). Even at the best of times this route is dirty. Yes, it is a very easy, very short route. But make sure your newbie climbers are aware of the dirt/rock wall interface. Jun 8, 2017

Rough

5.6

John: Take a deep breath. Taste that? Hopefully it's fresh *outdoor* air... Auburn isn't a gym. Yes, there is dirt and mud both at the top of climbs and invariably on the climbs, especially this year as a result the significant rainfall. This too shall pass my friend. Many of the routes will need a lot of cleaning over the next few months to clean off the dirt. This is a cyclic process that happens every year at Auburn, regardless of rainfall, but the amount of rainfall impacts how long the "mud and crud" persist. Well, at least that's my perspective from having developed the majority of the routes and having climbed there longer than 99.9% of any person(s) who actually takes the time to read this. Jun 8, 2017

Eric L
Roseville, CA

5.6

Added spring clips to the chains at the top (7.8.17). Let's see if they wear out as fast as the ones I left on the top of TFS a year ago ( which are clearly being used as TR anchors). :( Also snugged both anchor bolts, right was worse (hanger spinning) than left.
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Kelley Gilleran
Meadow Vista

+1000

Get rid of those. Feb 9, 2018

Ky Bishop
Asheville, NC

ClimbTech sells dirt-cheap climbing-rated mussy hooks at $6 each. climbtechgear.com/top-ancho…

They aren't stainless but they will need replacement from wear well before that becomes an issue. The steel is ridiculously thick so I'd expect us to get at least a decade out of them in even the most heavily trafficked areas.

@Eric L are those things rated? They look terrifying and I'd be extremely surprised if they're safe... Unless you are 100% positive they are climbing rated, INCLUDING the gate, they should be taken off immediately. Nov 13, 2018