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Wisconsin
> Baraboo Range
> Devil's Lake
> W Bluff 05 - W…
> 1: Prospect Poi…
> 03: Big Toe to Great…
Mr. Lucky
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in 03: Big Toe to Great Chimney
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Barn Dance TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Big Toe T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Big Toe Left T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Big Toe Right T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Coup de Gras T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Double Jeopardy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fois Gros T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Grand Illusion T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Heel, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Homo Erectus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Icarus TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Illusion Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Impervious Horror TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Modern Life is Rubbish T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mr. Lucky TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Psamead Ghostdance T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stuck Knee T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unnamed 5.7 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 43.42005, -89.7384 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 738 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Erol Altay on Oct 3, 2012 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
Start up the 10- slab to the left of Homo Erectus. Cruise to the base and up the right side of the wall, through horizontals at the bottom and in middle of the overhanging wall above. Long reaches, a key hand slot, and a lucky catch gets you to a finishing mantle, followed by a couple of satisfying 5.8 moves in the upper short dihedral to the top.
Location
The small amphitheater to the left of Homo Erectus has four climbs with Modern Life is Rubbish on its left edge. To the right of this is Mr. Lucky. The right crack filled with pigeon poo is Foie Gros (5.7), and the right wall is Coup de Gras (510a. Similar to Coup d' Etat, but obviously easier).
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